What's the difference between mid torque vs low torque? sounds like the low torque gives more power correct?
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What's the difference between mid torque vs low torque? sounds like the low torque gives more power correct?
Low torque won't give you more power. It will twist less and give you better control if you have a sound swing. Higher torque will help a slicer/fader.
ah i see, since i'm a beginner, i might go with the medium toruque. is the proforce 65 gold shaft any good? and how much do it usually go for? thanks
yikes, i just read that the shaft is more for strong player. I'm thinking of getting the TM 580 but what about their shaft, are they any good? the shaft is calle M.A.S 2 ultralight 60 mid torque? the shaft will be stiff with 9.5 degree.
I've provided 2 links for you to read about shaft torque:Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit
http://www.sheagolf.com/Fitting/Golf_Club_Fitting_2.asp
http://www.moonshotgolf.com/golf_shafts.htm
Ther shaft is on sale at the Golfworks. It has a torque of 3.4 which is OK. There is more to it than that(swing speed, launch angle, swing tendencies etc) but I would say it is a good choice.
http://www.golfworks.com/item_disp.asp?pn=PF65WX
Low torque = about 4* or lessQuote:
Originally Posted by gambit
Mid torque = 4* to 6*
High torque = above 6* (roughly)
Torque is not a factor in distance but it can be in accuracy. If the shaft has a low torque it should be balanced by also having a lower frequency.
This is what Tom Wishon( a real expert) has to say:
From both testing as well as from a recent computer modeling study of torque, I can tell you that the only place that torque is an issue is on the downswing before the clubhead hits the ball. Because the shaft is attached to the heel end of all clubheads, that puts most all of the mass of the clubhead out there in front of the shaft. That means this mass can elicit a twisting effect on the shaft during the swing. How much it does cause the shaft to twist on the downswing before impact is dependent on 1) the torsional stiffness of the shaft design, which we all know as X degrees of torque from each company's specs, 2) the downswing tempo, aggressiveness, swing speed of the golfer - the more the golfer really pours on the coal from the start of the downswing to the ball, the more the mass of the head could twist the shaft out of position coming into impact, 3) the mass of the head.
What this all boils down to in most simple terms is this - if you have a physically strong golfer with a high swing speed and a very aggressive downswing move at the ball, keep them out of any wood shaft with torque over 4 degrees or an iron shaft with torque over 3.5 degs. If you do only that, you will never have a situation where a mis-direction tendency comes from the golfer overpowering the torsional stiffness of the shaft.
In real yards, the most that a shaft could push the ball off line just from the torque vs the golfer's swing characteristics is in the area of 10-12 yards. Keep the torque fitting within that simple guideline and you'll never see more than 2-3 yds from the torque. And by the way, all possible mis direction that could come from the torque vs the golfer happens on the downswing before impact.
One of the best ways I think that I can assure you that this matter of the grip is insignificant (other than if the feel of this freaks out the golfer and plants that seed of doubt) is that you do see a number of the tour players using shafts with torque in the high 3's and low 4's today. Thus if torque at that level were such a big deal when it comes to accuracy you can be sure that these guys would have rejected such shafts and would be using only shafts with lower torque values because you are looking at a collection of some of the highest swing speeds and resulting forces on shafts among players on the PGA Tour.
My question is: if torque has no effect on distance, what would be the possible dissadvantage(s) of playing a shaft with too little torque?
I believe the primary disadvantage would be the "feel" of the shaft - for golfers with lower swing speeds and a less aggressive/smoother downswing a low torque shaft would "feel" harsher and boardier.Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrace
I was surprised by Tom Wishon's comments however, because I was always under the impression that torque was also a factor in shot trajectory - which could therefore affect distance.
Are all of these aftermarket shaft better than the factory shaft? The driver that i'm looking into (Taylor Made 580) has a factory shaft M.A.S. 60 with mid torque. Should i buy a used driver and replace with a custom shaft or just keep the factory shaft?
Fukijura
Aldila
Grafalloy blue
Prolaunch
YS-7, YS-6
just a few.......
Gambit,
Go to clubmaker in your area and get fitted for the proper shaft based on your swing speed, ball flight and ability. Everyone on here will tell you a different shaft that they like, myself I like the feel of the Aldila in my driver but others will like something else. Also while your there get a custom driver made for you if its cheaper then buying the TM and having the shaft replaced, you are a beginner and as hard as it to not get caught up in the equipment race, you should work on your game then get some fancy clubs. I used a full custom set for the first 4 years and when I started hitting low 80's consistantly i treated myself to a nice OEM set. Just 2 cents, do what ever is best for you obviously.
Denny
regarding the ball flight, how would they tell cause it's indoor. My swing speed is pretty fast for my body size, i guess playing baseball helped. I try out my friend TM510 8.5 Stiff and i can hit it a lot better then him. Anyhow, It's going to be a lot more expensive buying the club there and getting it fitted. I shop for my driver on ebay looking for a TM580 9 - 9.5* Stiff but i'm only wondering if the aftermarket shaft better than the factory shaft?Quote:
Originally Posted by dbleber
Good places have sensors that monitor the impact area, they can see how much you are off center, what the approach angle is at impact, how much spin you put on the ball, and the swing speed. They program the computer for which club you are using and the display can generate a pretty accurate dipiction of your ball flight.
I just bought a set of custom fitted KZG clubs and I definitly hit them all better than my old clubs, but the biggest difference was in the driver. Like dbleber said, having a custom fitted, properly aligned shaft is the way to go. With off the rack clubs I was getting my best results with an 8.5* stiff driver.. custom fitted I'm doing much better with a 10.5* with a low torque Aldila shaft.. (also note with custom shafts the stiffness designations are more accurate and there are more than just the off the shelf 4 stiffnesses.
This is not a personal shot, but would it not be wiser to do the opposite? As OEM stuff in not custom fitted, generally, and from my own examination of many OEM clubs shafts in particular, the stiffness is not what the label says it is, once you have developed a better swing as you did, the time to get properly custom fitted is then. OEM heads are great, but the shaft fitting is abyssmal.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbleber
With irons there are really only three kinds of heads: full cavity back, partial cavity, and musclebacks. Shafts, however, can vary in specs and quality significantly. Superior components like the KZG line and Wishons, with properly fitted shafts, will play better overall than off the rack OEM's for most golfers. KZG and Wishon have both cast and forged heads
In a thread on the Toronto forum, I had a discussion with Gawain Robertson who works for ACCRA, and he admitted that many OEM's deliberately use shafts that are more flexible than listed and that sometimes the quality is suspect. On that point we agreed.
I see your point and agree with the get the more custom clubs when your are a better player. I was referring to the dollars and cents investment part of it. In my experience custom clubs (clones not KZG or Wishon) are a lot cheaper, you can usaully pick up a whole set for the cost of one OEM driver! For me I love the feel and look of the OEM clubs be it Titleist, Ping or Wishon(haven't tried it personnaly). I am always interested in your findings on OEM shafts and very surprised at your results. For the price we pay for these clubs and the brand name of some of the shafts they use, it seems criminal to me that your results are what they are. Makes me wonder what my Aldila in my Cobra really is.....hmmm. As to my advice to Gambit, I was refering to paying the price of an OEM driver, then a shaft and install. When he could easily go get one made with a good shaft and head and get the expensive clubs later. Since he has written that he cannot hit his woods very well anyway it would be a shame to invest all that money in a driver and have it dribble off the tee or even worse pop in the air with a nasty skymark left on the crown!Quote:
Originally Posted by BC MIST
Denny