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Thread: Shaft changing
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05-06-2011 08:57 PM #1
Shaft changing
So I've "changed" (removed and reinstalled) the shaft in one of my drivers twice now and each time it has only lasted for 4 drives. I can't figure out what I might be doing wrong. Help please. Here's my steps:
1. remove old shaft (heat ferrule, remove. heat hosel, use club puller to remove).
2. clean clean clean. both parts are pristine when i am finished.
3. roughen shaft tip.
4. mix epoxy. mix mix mix.
5. add shafting beads.
6. mix mix mix.
7. apply epoxy to tip and slide on ferrule.
8. apply more epoxy to tip.
9. use flat head screw drive to put epoxy into hosel.
10. insert shaft.
11. bang butt end on floor while pushing down head.
12. move ferrule down.
13. clean off excess epoxy.
14. let club sit for 24 hours.
15. hit 4 balls and watch head fly 50 yards.
What might I be missing?
Thanks.
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05-06-2011 09:08 PM #2
Questions for you.
How exactly are you doing step 2? Give us all the steps.
Step 10. When you insert the shaft, do you slowly rotate the shaft into the hosel or jam it straight in?
Step 11. Should not be required unless I'm not understanding what you are doing.
Step 12. Is the ferrule actually further up the shaft and you are sliding it towards the head? How did you manage that? I normally push the ferrule down with the clubhead so that it's in the correct position and then after that apply the epoxy to the shaft and put it into the head.Not fat anymore. Need to get better at golf now!
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05-06-2011 09:15 PM #3
2. Clean hosel using 335 wire brush purchased at Golfworks. Brush brush brush, tap out epoxy, repeat until nothing left in hosel. Clean tip using wire brush/sand paper until totally clean.
10. I am not rotating the shaft into the hosel. Nothing I have read or watched showed this being done. I will do it if necessary of course.
12. I apply a small amount of epoxy to shaft and push ferrule on to just above where hosel will finish. So yes it is slightly farther up the shaft than the hosel finishes and I do slide it back down.
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05-06-2011 09:20 PM #4
A couple of comments.
- Make sure the wire brush is completely clean. If something (like oil or solvent) has gotten into the bristles it could be getting into the hosel.
- I have always rotated slowly. If you just jam it on a lot of the epoxy will be pushed out of the way by the shaft.
- Rarely have I ever been able to push a ferrule back down unless it is too large. If you do that I would rotate the shaft in the hosel a couple of turns to make sure the epoxy is evenly spread around the shaft tip inside the hosel.Not fat anymore. Need to get better at golf now!
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05-06-2011 09:45 PM #5
Thanks. Greatly appreciated. I'll try your tips tomorrow.
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05-06-2011 09:48 PM #6
1. remove old shaft (heat ferrule, remove. heat hosel, use club puller to remove). OK
2. clean clean clean. both parts are pristine when i am finished. OK
3. roughen shaft tip.OK
4. mix epoxy. mix mix mix.OK but make sure you mix equal parts of A and B
5. add shafting beads.
Not OK imho. Mix your epoxy without the beads. Just put the beads aside for now and don't forget you only need a very small amount
6. mix mix mix.
No need to overdo it. You've already done it in step 3
7. apply epoxy to tip and slide on ferrule. OK
8. apply more epoxy to tip.OK but you don't need to overdo it.
9. use flat head screw drive to put epoxy into hosel.
Wooden coffe stick is better.
10. insert shaft.
Before inserting the shaft now is the time to put a little bit of beads on the tip. You don't need that much. If you use too much you'll have a hard time inserting the shaft.Now slowly insert the shaft into the hosel by rotating it in.
11. bang butt end on floor while pushing down head.
No need to do that. You can measure the hosel depth with and old shaft tip or a nail to check if you got it down to its proper depth. You should do that is if you're dealing with too tight a ferrule or a very tight fit.
12. move ferrule down.
If you have measured the hosel depth you can double check the ferrule placement. If you're dealing with a stubborn ferrule you can heat it with a heat gun for 10 seconds or so. It should then go up the shaft no problem. Pushing it too far up the shaft is making an easy task more difficult.
13. clean off excess epoxy.
Remenber you do not have to use too much epoxy. Any excess will go up the shaft and ooze out so go easy.
14. let club sit for 24 hours.
OK.
In the beads thread I pointed you to the following link. Not to rub it in but reread step number 5
http://www.golfsmith.com/display_pag...stration1&ln=N
5. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the shaft tip and the hosel interior. Install ferrule, if applicable. Insert the shaft into the hosel, rotating gently to ensure an even coating of epoxy. Make sure the shaft is seated to the bottom of the hosel. Clean excess epoxy with a clean towel and grip solvent. Align the shaft graphics or PURE label before setting the club up for curing. While the epoxy is curing set the golf club with the head on the ground with the shaft vertical.
Good luck.Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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05-07-2011 06:45 PM #7
For the cleaning step 2 use acetone or similar on the shaft tip and in the hosel to completely remove any oil and dirty. This will ensure a good bond.
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05-13-2011 11:45 AM #8
How did it work out this time?
Obviously you're not a golfer.
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