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  1. #1
    Sand Wedge jwm is on a distinguished road
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    Garage sim opinions needed

    garage setup.jpg

    I've included a diagram. I even included a diagram wife looking disapprovingly for realism. PR-20 would be the net. Ceiling height is 13-14 ft. I've been trying to decide between the X2 and GC2.

    The X2 would be the middle green area to the door.

    Pluses:
    -In a vacuum I'd probably want the X2 over the GC2 based on apps, clubhead data, etc.
    Negatives:
    -I'd have to move the mat and net into place, and the wife's car. This is where I need the experienced garage users. This doesn't sound like a lot of effort but it certainly stops you from hitting for 10 minutes in between other life events.
    -I'm not sure the best way to get the net up and down, pulleys? Electric motor route just adds complication and costs I don't need.

    Side note: I measured the angle from the hitting area to the wall, 42ish. I've read Trackman data that indicates pros launch a PW at 24 degrees. Assuming as a 14 handicapper I don't deloft nearly as much I should still be safe with a net that high right?

    GC2 is the green square to the right aiming at the wall (and wife.)
    Pluses:
    -Permanent setup, wouldn't have to move wife's car, mats, nets, etc. Just fire it up.
    -GC2 indoor reliability
    Negatives:
    -Permanent is also a negative. That space couldn't be used for anything else.
    -I'd feel pretty cramped.

    Any other thoughts from garage guys would be helpful. I think that the drag of setting up all the stuff might outweigh the positives of the X2.

  2. #2
    Bogie pingB is on a distinguished road
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    Lots of people talk up the GC2. I haven't used it personally, but from what I hear its good. Any sim system will be more or less permanent. I think you have options with something like the GC2 though as far as being able to take it down. VS something like the GSA or protee that takes so much to set up.

    Anyway not sure how it is in Boston, but in Texas they don't insulate garages by default. So make sure you have insulation installed in your walls and ceilings. Heat is my problem where as I assume cold would be yours.

    I'm in the process of trying to figure out a better situation to get out of my garage because my wife is not going to let me stay in there much longer heh.

  3. #3
    Lob Wedge Azgdds is on a distinguished road
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    How does your garage door work? Is there a track in the way of the screen?

  4. #4
    Sand Wedge jwm is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azgdds View Post
    How does your garage door work? Is there a track in the way of the screen?
    I'm still building it so I can't just take a picture or I would for you. The Liftmaster 3800 is a jack shaft opener. The motor mounts on the wall and the tracks travel close to the ceiling for a very low profile. You can see it work on YouTube. The screen would be mounted outside the tracks and door would pass through the gap.

  5. #5
    Lob Wedge Azgdds is on a distinguished road
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    Perfect. I have a couple of those. Just wanted to be sure that was thought of.

  6. #6
    Postaholic CPA is on a distinguished road
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    The screen for GC2 would be only fixture. To move a mat and GC2 and reset is quick. Otherwise the space is usable. I vote GC2, but then I am biased as I have one.

  7. #7
    Gap Wedge Harry is on a distinguished road
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    JWM - I live 50 miles south of Boston if you want to check out what I have done in my garage. I have the Protee. I am going through a bit of a tweak at the moment to improve the portability of my stance mat, light, and camera accuracy. I am planning on tuning up this weekend and getting back on the course. I would suggest you put the permanent screen on the far wall (across from your doors). It will be out of the way from the garage door track and in a permanent place. I used angle iron and mounted my track lighting right from the door track and the projector is mounted at the appropriate throw distance above the track and pretty close to the garage doors. For the portability of the stance mat, I highly recommend using 4x8 sheets of high density foam insulation and then use carpet tape to secure the turf to the surface. The foam is easy to cut out to insert the sensors (I have the the putting sensor as well). It is sturdy, nice on the feet, and so much lighter than a heavy bulky wood platform. When not in use, I simply pick up the two 4x8 stance mats, stack them up against the far wall at the base of the screen, and pull my car in. The only thing I have to be conscious of is when I put the mats back for use. I have to be sure they are properly centered under the lights. I plan on using some markers on the floor, or possibly velcro strips for keeping it in place. Good luck!

  8. #8
    Sand Wedge jwm is on a distinguished road
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    Great idea about the rigid insulation and thank you for the offer. I think the protee would be a no brainer if it was a permanent setup and if I wasn't the type to get frustrated with incessant tweaking. I had another thought and wonder if anyone has tried it. What about covering the stance mat (say a Country Club Elite) with a thin piece of Masonite or insulation and just parking right over it? Either that or your solution of getting a small true strike strip and a covered piece of foam to make it easier to move about.

  9. #9
    Known entity psace is on a distinguished road
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    Definitely go with the GC2. All you need is a hitting mat and you can move that and the GC2 unit easily. Don't put you screen on the garage door side but either use the opposite wall or the wall where your wife is standing (but move her first). I have my screen on a ceiling track so I can push it out of the way when not in use. Check out the post your simulator pictures thread to see some setups others have used.

    I hit my sand wedge up to 45 degrees so you may want to have some ceiling protection, especially if using real golf balls. There are also those flop shots which can go up to 60 degrees.

  10. #10
    Postaholic CPA is on a distinguished road
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    As well as top protection you need side protection on tracks which can be pulled out of the way back to screen. Net or 3 pass blackout curtain.

    The truestrike gel strip is the go with turf cut around it. In the right spot car will go over top.

    If the wife won't move just keep hitting real balls.

  11. #11
    Postaholic CPA is on a distinguished road
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    And just thought, cars mean cement. You may wish to have a roll of turf to stop bounce.

  12. #12
    Shotmaker bubs3141 is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry View Post
    JWM - I live 50 miles south of Boston if you want to check out what I have done in my garage. I have the Protee. I am going through a bit of a tweak at the moment to improve the portability of my stance mat, light, and camera accuracy. I am planning on tuning up this weekend and getting back on the course. I would suggest you put the permanent screen on the far wall (across from your doors). It will be out of the way from the garage door track and in a permanent place. I used angle iron and mounted my track lighting right from the door track and the projector is mounted at the appropriate throw distance above the track and pretty close to the garage doors. For the portability of the stance mat, I highly recommend using 4x8 sheets of high density foam insulation and then use carpet tape to secure the turf to the surface. The foam is easy to cut out to insert the sensors (I have the the putting sensor as well). It is sturdy, nice on the feet, and so much lighter than a heavy bulky wood platform. When not in use, I simply pick up the two 4x8 stance mats, stack them up against the far wall at the base of the screen, and pull my car in. The only thing I have to be conscious of is when I put the mats back for use. I have to be sure they are properly centered under the lights. I plan on using some markers on the floor, or possibly velcro strips for keeping it in place. Good luck!
    What insulation sheets did you go with? I would be afraid that the weight of a person would smoosh a foam board.

  13. #13
    Gap Wedge Harry is on a distinguished road
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    Rigid insulation foam sheets. I used 2 inch and 1 inch and glued them together for the needed height. The protee sensor slides nicely in the 2 inch and the 1 inch underneath serves to keep it off the floor. Once you put the turf on the top, you don't smoosh it

  14. #14
    Shotmaker bubs3141 is on a distinguished road
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    sounds good. I will give it a go.

  15. #15
    Gap Wedge Harry is on a distinguished road
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    If you go with the CG2, you wont need the insulation as you will not have to deal with levels the sensors in the stance mat. Perhaps just get a roll of foam back turf, and roll it out when needed. Place the GC2, and tee off. Giddyup

  16. #16
    Pitching Wedge espresso is on a distinguished road
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    If your budget can afford the GC2, that would be a no brainer for me. Like previously mentioned, all you need is a hitting mat. No fancy setup time is needed. As for the screen and netting, what's on the wall opposite of the garage doors that's preventing you from setting up your screen/net in that direction? I would hit in that direction or on either side walls. Not towards the garage doors. Are your rails for the garage door mounted flush to the ceiling or hanging down? You'll definitely want some sort of ceiling net if you plan to use wedges. You can hang ceiling net permanently 1-2' from the ceiling strung tight. The wall netting can be on some sort of rails like those used for hospital curtains. Same goes for you screen. If you want it retractable, I'd set it up similar to how your garage door is. A long metal rod with a chamberlain 3800 jackshaft door opener. You can program the up and down travel to retract the screen. I've thought this out and if I had the money, that's the setup I would opt for. Unfortunately a garage opener like that is another $350.

  17. #17
    Sand Wedge jwm is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by espresso View Post
    If your budget can afford the GC2, that would be a no brainer for me. Like previously mentioned, all you need is a hitting mat. No fancy setup time is needed. As for the screen and netting, what's on the wall opposite of the garage doors that's preventing you from setting up your screen/net in that direction? I would hit in that direction or on either side walls. Not towards the garage doors. Are your rails for the garage door mounted flush to the ceiling or hanging down? You'll definitely want some sort of ceiling net if you plan to use wedges. You can hang ceiling net permanently 1-2' from the ceiling strung tight. The wall netting can be on some sort of rails like those used for hospital curtains. Same goes for you screen. If you want it retractable, I'd set it up similar to how your garage door is. A long metal rod with a chamberlain 3800 jackshaft door opener. You can program the up and down travel to retract the screen. I've thought this out and if I had the money, that's the setup I would opt for. Unfortunately a garage opener like that is another $350.
    The garage is a new build so I'm going with the 3800 opener. The reason for thinking behind aiming at the doors is that the door is already "used space" whereas the back wall can be storage. Since I can be patient through the upcoming warm months, I will probably get the mat and netting and try all 3 potential locations before buying the analyzer in the fall. The back wall is making more sense if used with the tracks going horizontal instead of worrying about making the net go up and down. There isn't enough space on the door side to hide the nets if slid to the corner (26' wide with 10 ft wide doors doesn't leave much space on the edges and middle.) I'll take pictures once the concrete gets poured and the nets come in.

  18. #18
    Pitching Wedge espresso is on a distinguished road
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    How much space do you have on the sides? The space between the garage door track and the wall itself? 12"-24" I assume? If that space is less than say 16", I don't think it's a good idea to put the net and screen on the sides either. Unless you want to put up foam sheets on your wall, I think you need a good 12"-24" of space in case the ball hits the net to avoid it also hitting the wall behind it. If it hits the PR-20 screen and it's weighted down all you need I think is 12" of space behind it. I assume you're hitting real golfballs?

    Also, what would happen if your setup is in the path of the garage door and all the sudden someone came home and opened the garage door? It might end up pushing your net and screen causing a big mess. Even worse, it might damage the garage door or motor. I have the Liftmaster 3800 as well and there's a lock function to keep it closed but installing the net/screen away from the door's path I think is the best way to go, long term. Hence you should really consider hitting opposite of the garage doors. You can still hang the net/impact screen away from the wall via ceiling rails. That way you can still have wall storage like cabinets/shelves and still have a few feet buffer if errant balls strike the impact netting. This setup also allows for a wider screen since it's unobstructed by the garage door rails. I also think you want to use the entire garage when swinging clubs and wouldn't want your wife's car parked there. Backing out a car wouldn't take more than 30 seconds. I'm still in the process of setting mine up in a 2 car garage and wouldn't feel comfortable swinging a metal club next to a car. Plus it's nice to have the added space to center your mat to the screen.

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