Shaft Pulling?

[Break68]

I bought a shaft extractor and a heat gun last week.
Today I pulled my first shaft, my driver shaft.
It took a very long time to get head it off the shaft.
I used the Golfworks intructions. Found here: http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/...ftGraphite.pdf

STEP 3. While wearing protective leather gloves aim the heat gun at the backside of the hosel keeping the nozzle approximately 3" to 4" away form the hosel. Heat on a high temperature setting for about 1 minute and then apply pressure with the wrench to remove the clubhead. If the clubhead doesnot come loose continue heating for up to 3 minutes total.
At this point if it still does not come loose stop heating for 1 minute and resume heating for 30 seconds intervals until the head comes loose. <<<<<I had to do this heating step many times before the head actually came off the shaft.

Should it take such a long time for the head to come off the shaft?
FYI: the head and shaft are in perfect condition after removal.

[Break68]

Well I cut 1 inch off the tip, sanded off the paint, installed the ferrule, mixed the epoxy, applied epoxy to the inside of the hosel and the shaft tip, aligned the Xcaliber shaft graphics and spine marking according to Robin Arthur's directions, applied epoxy to inside of butt end and on to the shaft extension and installed it. Once cured I wll cut shaft to length. This was so cool, it probably took me 10 longer to do this than a pro would have done, but with a first time shaft extraction and tipping 1 inch off shaft and re-building the club and installing an extension. A lot of fun none the less. We will see tomorrow how successful my first tipping and re-build is.
Here is the instructions I followed: http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/...BuildClubs.pdf

[Chieflongtee]

At this point if it still does not come loose
stop heating for 1 minute and resume heating for 30 seconds intervals until the
head comes loose. <<<<<I had to do this heating step many times
before the head actually came off the shaft.

What make is your heat gun and what is the highest temperature setting?The jobmate from Canadian Tire has a 842 F maximum setting.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

The Black and Decker heat gun has a maximum settong of 1020F
http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/9756.aspx

Makes a big difference. Also the 24 hour after market epoxy takes longer to break down than OEM epoxy.

You might also want to give a butane torch a try.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butane_torch
Consumer
air butane torches are often claimed to develop flame temperatures up to approximately 1,700
K(1,430 °C;
2,600 °F).
This temperature is high enough to melt many common metals, such as aluminum and copper,
and hot enough to vaporize many Organic
chemistry compounds as well

Extra care with butane as the heat has to be directed away from the paint as much as possible.Be careful with Carbon heads. The club shield from GW is not a bad thing to have
http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW1033

[Break68]

I used this one from Golfworks: ECONOMY ELECTRIC HEAT GUN

A great value - a must have for heating golf clubs for shaft extraction. Slow heat from a heat gun will help protect the painted finishes on metal woods.

Features:
Two temperature settings — 630° F and 1,000° F
120 VAC

[Break68]

I just cut the shaft to length and I will put on the grip tomorrow. I may even go to a range tomorrow after work and see if my first tip trimming worked. I hope I used enough epoxy in the hosel and on the shaft, time will tell.

[Break68]

I am very happy with the results so far. A range session will tell all.

[Break68]

I got a chance to hit a few balls at the range today after work and the shaft feels much better, definitely stiffer than it was.
I would call the 1 inch trimming a huge success. The shaft doesn't feel whippy at all anymore. I am very happy with the result and happy I was able to do it myself.

[jvincent]

Well done young Jedi.

I hope you have space for a shaft graveyard.

[Break68]

Space for shaft graveyard, I do have. It already has 2 sets of steel iron shafts, 3 driver shafts, 2 hybrid shafts and a few other miscellaneous shafts. They are shafts from my clubs over the last 3 years, but alas I had to pay someone to pull them, never again. They now live in the cedar closet in the deepest darkest corner of our basement, never to see a golf course again. Very sad.

[Break68]

Question: I have a 2009 Adams Idea Tech a4 0S Hybrid with a YSQ-HL Graphite Graphite Design in a Regular flex with tip diameter of .370"; Is there any point in tip trimming this shaft?
It is a made for shaft and it is like a wet spaghetti noodle, very whippy.

[jvincent]

If you don't like it, go for it. Nothing to lose.

[Break68]

Cool, I love my Wishon hybrid, it would be for my son's bag. He is 6 foot 4 inches tall and has a pretty fast swing speed, I am sure it currently is way too soft a flex for his swing.

[Break68]

It's official I played Stonebridge today and the driver shaft is amazing now. Perfect for my swing. I am very happy with the results.

[Break68]

Ok so I read the specifications for the Xcaliber shafts on the Golfworks site and on Robin Arthur's site (www.arthursports.com) for the umpteenth time; but this time I actually read and thought about the information and digested what the description for each shaft was and then compared that to my game, swing, swing speed, tempo and now finally realize I bought the wrong shafts for my driver and 3 wood. I have also emailed and chatted with Robin Arthur on the Golfwrx.com website and had this confirmed through my communication with him; as best as he can help me without getting together in person to do a proper shaft fitting. I should have bought the Xcaliber 6+ in Stiff and the FW shaft in Stiff, these are definitely the best shafts for my swing characteristics. I bought the Xcaliber 6 in Regular and the FW shaft in Regular. I have as mentioned above tipped 1 inch the Xcaliber 6 in Regular and it plays very well for me. Every other club in my bag has a Stiff shaft, oh well live and learn.
Maybe next year I will change to the Xcaliber 6+ in stiff and the FW in stiff.

[hoganblades]

It is funny to me how this thread got sidetracked. Good points, though.

About a heat gun, and heating shafts, I got a Dewalt heat gun from amazon.com at a good price. It goes up to 1100 degrees F with a rotary dial control. I set the temperature to max and put the heat concentrator attachment on it. Then I have at it, applying heat moving the nozzle almost continuously around the hosel. I position the nozzle about an inch away from the hosel. After a couple of minutes, I try removing the club head. If it doesn't budge, I heat for another minute, then I let it rest for about half a minute, then I re-apply heat for another minute then I try removing the head again. It usually comes off. If not, I go back and forth after that applying heat for half a minute, and trying to get the head off.

I realize that this is a rather old thread, but I thought I would give my input for those new to the thread.

Cheers!