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Thread: R11 - Slice Machine
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08-02-2011 12:53 PM #1
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- May 2011
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R11 - Slice Machine
Hey Guys,
This year I picked up an R11 driver (10.5 - dropped to 9.5) regular shaft when I was in the States. I had tested it at the club and was virtually certain that this was the driver for me.
Since then I can't seem to get it going and am constantly slicing the ball...a mean slice at that. I've got a swing speed around 92-97 mph and am starting to think I should have picked up a stiff shaft, it's just so damn whippy.
So what do you guys think is my best bet? Pay for a brand new stiff shaft or try and sell my existing driver in full and pick up a new one?
What a pain.
Thanks.
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08-02-2011 01:14 PM #2
I have the R11 stiff shaft if you would like it. I got the stiff shaft and that wasn't stiff enough for me. I have a club head speed of around 101mph-105mph so I needed up upgrade the shaft. It doesn't have the hosel on it but if you can find one, I will put it on no charge. I'm asking $80 for the shaft. I used it a good 3 maybe 4 times.
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08-02-2011 01:51 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2011
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- Ottawa
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- 48
How difficult is it to change the hosel? Can I remove the hosel from my regular shaft and put it on your stiff?
I'm going to take some pokes at the club tomorrow with a stiff. Will get back to you then. Thanks for the help.
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08-02-2011 02:25 PM #4I got a fever. And the only prescription is more golf equipment.
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08-02-2011 03:17 PM #5
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- May 2011
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- 48
Yea. I've adjusted the weights (just the stock ones though) and closed the face at address. Neither of them did anything for me.
I took some shots with a friends driver after finally retiring mine for the day. Hit 4 of 4 fairways with his old Ping G5 9 degree stiff shaft...
I'd really like to get my act together with the R11 though...spent enough money on it afterall.
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08-02-2011 03:40 PM #6
you can adjust more than the weights. You can tune loft, face angle, and ball flights.
http://www.taylormadegolf.com/produc...ers/r11-driver
the weights will probably do the least.I got a fever. And the only prescription is more golf equipment.
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08-02-2011 07:36 PM #7
A slice is caused when your face is open and you are coming across the ball from the outside to in. If your driver is setup properly for your swing, you should not be slicing the ball. As well, the lower the loft, the more sidespin affects ball flight. So maybe set it to 10.5 and close the face and see what happens.
Proud member of the 2009 Ryder Cup winning team
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08-02-2011 08:55 PM #8
The hosel is just as easy to remove as any hosel, if not easier. The only down side is you will have to get a new ferrule as the part that has the words on it that you see when the head is attached, is made of plastic and will melt when removing the hosel. It's purely aesthetics though. I could swap them for you free of charge if you buy the shaft.
I didn't have a new part so I had to make due with what I have. Here is a picture of the club now:
It still works the same and with the white head, no one is really looking at the hosel area anyway.
PM me if interested or have any questions for me. I'll get a PM before anything.
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08-02-2011 10:24 PM #9
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08-02-2011 11:00 PM #10
- Join Date
- May 2008
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- Neepawa Manitoba
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- 886
I agree with fourlights , a stiff shaft is not going to help you . I tested the r 11 set it up for max draw it helped a bit . I really disliked the r11.. over hyped . Try a Ping k15 or super fast.
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08-02-2011 11:12 PM #11
I used the Ping G15 and really liked it. I can't wait to try the G20. I have yet to find the perfect setup for my R11, which is why I always go back to my "old faithful" R7. I love the R7 more then any other driver in my bag (I have a few in there).
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08-03-2011 07:11 AM #12
When pulling the ferrule out for a shaft change put a washer with a tiny hole and use the attaching screw . Then pull it out with your graphite shaft puller exerting pressure against the washer. Direct the heat away from the top of the ferrule, That way the ferrule will come out intact.
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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08-04-2011 07:30 PM #13
I'd rather just melt it off and make sure the epoxy is nice and loosened to ensure I don't damage the shaft. To each his own though.
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08-04-2011 09:28 PM #14
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- May 2007
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- ottawa
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Instead of fiddling around with weights and lifts and face angles and blah blah blah, just work on fixing your swing... Set the club up with standard loft, face angle and weighting and see what happens...
With that swing speed I can't see why you need a stiff shaft.
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08-04-2011 11:00 PM #15
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08-05-2011 07:42 AM #16
Very true but some clubs just won't go left. Been there done that. Moreover some folks can't differentiate between a block and a slice.And the shaft label does not mean squat imho.
I'd rather just melt it off and make sure the epoxy is nice and loosened to
ensure I don't damage the shaft. To each his own
though.
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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08-05-2011 06:17 PM #17
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Ottawa
- Posts
- 48
To update everyone (thanks for the input so far), I got out with my pro and played around with some things.
He diagnosed what was wrong with my swing (stood too close to the ball and had to pull up in order to avoid the ground - when I did that I wasn't closing the face at all). Oddly enough though I still naturally had shots going right, just not as hard. So we started moving up the shaft options. Started with a 60 gram regular stiff shaft and the problem got alittle less noticeable. We then moved to the 55 gram TP stiff shaft and for whatever reason the slice was fixed almost altogether. I actually started to have a tendency to pull them left slightly.
I hate to think I'm going to have to go out and buy an overpriced TP stiff shaft, but man was I hitting it better than with both the regular and standard stiff.
Anyone know where I can get my hands on a decently priced TP stiff 55 gram? haha...
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