Shaft Extractor - What do you use?

[mjf]

So... I want to re-shaft my driver and I'm also thinking about fiddling around with some different shaft/head combinations in some of my woods. Of course, to be able to do this and be confident that I'll be able to save the shaft, I'm going to need a shaft extractor. I don't want to spend a lot of money on this piece of eqiupment because I simply won't use it that much but, at the same time, I don't want a piece of garbage.

I went to the Golfworks store today to check out their selection. Their "economy" shaft extractor was around $100 and didn't impress me much for the price. They also have a better model but it costs about $200... a bit more than I'd like to spend.

I've been eyeing a couple of models available on Ebay but the sellers are located in the US and I'm always a bit leery about getting anything from the US because you never know for sure if there will be customs/duty charges or how much they will be.

The other option I've been considering is trying some sort of a DIY solution. The problem with this is that I haven't seen any plans for one available on the net that don't require some sort of metal-working ability.

So, I was wondering what type(s) of extractors are in use by the clubmakers here?

Any input appreciated. Thanks.
MJF

[Chieflongtee]

See this thread : http://www.freegolfinfo.com/forums/t...ft%2Cextractor
It does not require too much metal work(hardly any)

http://members.shaw.ca/dgjmcguire/

www.adjustableclamp.com/bl-3400.htm


I use the following:
http://www.golfsmith.com/ppage.php?s...0&fcst=GSI_WEB
It gets the job done but practice on old clubs first.

I will build myself a sturdy one over the winter
http://www.clubmaker-online.com/shaftpuller.html

[BC MIST]

http://www.mitchellgolf.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=1184

I use the Mitchell model listed above. Pricey, but works like a charm.

Easily pulls shafts of diameters, .335", .350", .370", and .400" without marring the top of the hosel.

Graphite shafts will sometimes or eventually slip because of the rubber vice grips that each one has. Increasing the pressure to create a solid hold can cause the shaft to be cracked so I just wrap a small piece of two-sided tape around the part of the shaft that is clamped, first, and problem solved.

Warning: Pulling a shaft from a Titleist 983 will cause you to pull your hair out.

[mjf]

Thanks guys. The spreader clamp idea looks intrigueing... I think I'll look into it a little bit further.


MJF

[Chieflongtee]

It depends what you want to do. I have seen extractors in the $40 range on the web. If you just want to do this as an experiment then the spreader is a nice little challenge. However if you plan on doing this for a long time BC Mist's suggestion to get a solid one is a better choice over the long run.
The spreader and the pry bar will work on most shafts but if you do run across a stubborn bore through head then it maybe tougher to get the job done.

[mjf]

I took a look around town at a few different stores (Canadian Tire, Walmart and Sears) to try to find a clamp that looks similar to the one in the picture at this link: http://members.shaw.ca/dgjmcguire/

The only ones I found were similar but they all have plastic or rubber to cover the 'jaws' of the clamp/spreader. I couldn't find any that had metal in that section. I'm wondering if perhaps a block of wood could be used instead of steel? For example, a 2x4 with an appropriate-sized notch that was firmly attached to the clamp/spreader where it meets the top of the hosel.

Any thoughts?

I suppose I could just go with the pry-bar but I can envision myself doing a lot of damage that way.

Thanks
MJF

[LobWedge]

I took a look around town at a few different stores (Canadian Tire, Walmart and Sears) to try to find a clamp that looks similar to the one in the picture at this link: http://members.shaw.ca/dgjmcguire/

The only ones I found were similar but they all have plastic or rubber to cover the 'jaws' of the clamp/spreader. I couldn't find any that had metal in that section. I'm wondering if perhaps a block of wood could be used instead of steel? For example, a 2x4 with an appropriate-sized notch that was firmly attached to the clamp/spreader where it meets the top of the hosel.

Any thoughts?

I suppose I could just go with the pry-bar but I can envision myself doing a lot of damage that way.

Thanks
MJF

If you're going to use wood, I'd suggest a piece of hardwood like oak, maple or ash. That way the hosel won't dig in when you apply pressure like it will with spruce.

[Chieflongtee]

The following shaft extractor is a good alternative if you don,t want to build one. Not too pricey.
http://www.theextractor.com/index.html

[Chieflongtee]

If anybody wants to see a pic of a homemade shaft puller(Bernie Baymiller's shaft puller made with a vise) send me a pm with your email address and I'll gladly send it to you). I would post it here but the pic is too large and I don't know how to reduce it. Maybe DK can help.

[PowerFade]

BC, thanks for this tip!! That's the model I have and that's the problem I've had with it (never actually cracked a shaft, though). Double sided tape it is! By the way, do you find that the glue on the tape affects the rubber at all?

PS on Mitchell to everyone, once your rubber pads wear out and you buy a second set they will then re-rubber your 2nd set for free forever. Good deal on a great product!

http://www.mitchellgolf.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=1184

I use the Mitchell model listed above. Pricey, but works like a charm.

Easily pulls shafts of diameters, .335", .350", .370", and .400" without marring the top of the hosel.

Graphite shafts will sometimes or eventually slip because of the rubber vice grips that each one has. Increasing the pressure to create a solid hold can cause the shaft to be cracked so I just wrap a small piece of two-sided tape around the part of the shaft that is clamped, first, and problem solved.

Warning: Pulling a shaft from a Titleist 983 will cause you to pull your hair out.

[BC MIST]

BC, thanks for this tip!! That's the model I have and that's the problem I've had with it (never actually cracked a shaft, though). Double sided tape it is! By the way, do you find that the glue on the tape affects the rubber at all?

PS on Mitchell to everyone, once your rubber pads wear out and you buy a second set they will then re-rubber your 2nd set for free forever. Good deal on a great product!

The pads do get a bit grungy, but I just clean them with some low odour varsol, wash them with soap and water, and they are now OK. I should, however, get a second set.

While I have never tried this I was told by another clubmaker that if you just wrap a piece of newspaper around the shaft, before putting in the SP, that the shaft won't slip. Perhaps I will try this next time.

[PowerFade]

While I have never tried this I was told by another clubmaker that if you just wrap a piece of newspaper around the shaft, before putting in the SP, that the shaft won't slip. Perhaps I will try this next time.

This would be even better. Thanks again!

[Chieflongtee]

Bernie Baymiller's home made shaft puller.

[mjf]

Well, I started out this thread several months ago so I figured I'd give an update. After looking at a few options I settled on this one that I found on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...sPageName=WDVW

It cost a little bit more than some of the 'economy' models but I think it's a much more solid extractor that I think should last me a good long time. After a few test runs with some steel-shafted clubs I gave it a whirl on my graphite-shafted driver and had no problems at all.

MJF