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Thread: Reshafting a driver
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04-09-2010 10:22 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Posts
- 28
Reshafting a driver
Hey,
I was thinking about reshafting my driver but...its 100+$ at Golft town for anything decent. Golf Works seems to have decent prices but I need to get it put together after I buy it. So does anyone have an idea of what the best way is? I was thinking of buying the shaft at Golf Works but then it costs 20$ to put it in at GT. Whats the cheapest place to get my old shaft pulled and a new one put in?
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04-09-2010 12:07 PM #2
The cheapest route is to find a used shaft and then get one of the guys on here to put it in for you. Even if you buy a new shaft there are a quite a few guys on here who do this kind of thing and usually a lot less than GT or GW.
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04-24-2010 05:57 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- montreal
- Posts
- 1
Reshafting
I have found out by trial and error that going to GolfTown is expensive. So many little shops can do the same for less. And ordering throught GolfWorks out of Ottawa can be a lot cheaper for Shafts and other equipment.
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04-28-2010 10:14 AM #4
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- Hudson
- Posts
- 2
Try it yourself
Replacing a shaft is really simple. If you learn how to do it, you can start to really play around with equipment.
1) Pulling the old shaft. If you want to save the pulled shaft, you will need a shaft puller. Or, just take it to Golftown and ask them to pull it for you. They charged me $5 last time to do this.
If you do not want to save the shaft, just use a heat gun, heat up the hosel until the epoxy breaks down, and pull off the head. Use gloves in this process as the head gets super hot!
2) Go to golfworks, and buy epoxy ($1.10 for a single pack), a ferrule (0.50, get a 0.335" ferrule since this is for a driver shaft), a grip ($5), grip tape (0.40 for pre cut strips) and Grip solvent ($4.40 or just go to walmart and buy mineral spirits for $2). SO , for $9, you have everything but the shaft. If you are going to buy the shaft at Golfworks, drop by the store and ask them if they have any clean pulls for sale. I save a ton of cash by buying pulled shafts. Nothing wrong with them, just not brand new and not always the best selection.
3) Prepare the new shaft. Fit the new shaft into the hosel. Mark how deep it sits in the hosel and add on the depth of a ferrule. Use fine grade sandpaper to abrade the tip; basically just sand off the smooth finish so the epoxy has something to grab. Lots of videos on the web on this.
4) Clean out the hosel and the end of the shaft with grip solvent or mineral spirits. Not 100% necessary, but 10 seconds for peace of mind.
5) Mix up the epoxy. Coat the sanded part of the shaft with epoxy, use a small pointy object to coat the inside of the hosel, and coat the inside of the ferrule.
6) Slide the ferrule onto the shaft and the insert the shaft into the hosel. Be sure the shaft is fully inserted.
7) Align the logo on the shaft so it looks pretty at address. Use a cloth soaked in solvent/mineral spirits to clean up any excess epoxy on the club. Once this stuff sets, you ain't getting it off! Lean club against a wall in the playing position until the epoxy cures (usually 24hrs).
Putting on the grip; I usually put the grip on before I glue up the shaft so the club is ready to play as soon as the epoxy is dry. Otherwise you have to go through 2 drying periods (epoxy and then the grip)
8) Apply the tape where the grip is going to go. Tons of videos on how to do this on the web.
9) Cover the small hole at the end of the grip, and fill it with grip solvent. Shake it around, and then pour it over the tape on the shaft. Using lots of solvent ensures the grip slides on easily. Just work quickly once you pour the solvent over the tape to ensure it does not dry before you try and slip the grip on. I have wrecked a couple (maybe 3??) grips over the years by not using enough solvent or working too slowly.
10) Align logo on the grip with logo on the shaft so it looks pretty at address. Place club against wall and wait 24 hrs.
If you take your time, and have all your tools and club components laid out, this is an incredibly simple thing to do. Some people may argue that you need shafting beads to ensure a perfect shaft/hosel fit, but I have shafted tons of clubs without shafting beads and have never had an issue.
Good luck
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04-29-2010 09:22 AM #5
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04-29-2010 09:29 AM #6
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Location
- Nepean
- Posts
- 950
Quick question. What are the tools needed to do this?
Heatgun (any substitions?)
grip tape
Solvent
Vice
Am I missing some things?
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04-29-2010 01:22 PM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- Hudson
- Posts
- 2
Tools required
Only tool is the heat gun of you are going to pull the shaft yourself. Some people use a torch, butI don't want to destroy the paint on my club head. If you plan on playing around with clubs, a heat gun is really the best way to go. Keep your eyes on the weekly Canadian tire flyer since they are on sale at least once a month for $15 to $20.
Note, if you are pulling steel shafts, a shaft puller is not necessary as you will not hurt the shaft. A shaft puller is needed for graphite shafts so you do not destroy it when removing it. Since I do not have a shaft puller, I just have Golftown pull them for me. If you catch the guy in a good mood, he may even just pull the head for free.
You will need some mixing sticks (coffee stirrers) for the epoxy, and some type of small tool like a straw to get the epoxy down the hosel. Sand paper for prepping the tip of the shaft. Maybe some electrical tape to mark where you need to sand to on the shaft. This prevents you from scratching any visible part of the shaft. Some paper towels and mineral spirits for cleaning up any excess epoxy as this stuff gets messy fast.
Seriously, this is super simple. Take your time, check out videos online, and you will be able to do this with absolutley no problems. One thing, don't tell your friends you can do this, or you will be spending a lot of time working on their clubs!
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04-29-2010 04:29 PM #8
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