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Thread: Reshafting
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06-14-2009 03:57 AM #1
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Reshafting
Hey guys, the shaft in my ft-5 snapped the other day on the course, and if i cant get the warranty for my driver i was wondering where the best/most reliable place would be to get the existing shaft taken out and replaced by a new one(kingston/ottawa area), and where could i buy a brand new diamana blueboard shaft? Thanks.
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06-14-2009 07:34 AM #2
Mon't places won't pull the shaft because of the composite crown. However since it snapped it can be drilled out. A special ferrule is required. Your best bet would be Golfworks in Ottawa to find the parts and most probably the install.
Last edited by Chieflongtee; 06-14-2009 at 09:58 AM.
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
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06-14-2009 09:58 AM #3
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06-14-2009 10:04 AM #4
I have an FT-5 with a Diamana Bule Board for sale. Would be cheaper than buying the shaft if you can't get it fixed through Callaway.
If you do make the trip to Ottawa to get it fixed, I would take it to Don at Artisian golf. He is one of, or probably the best clubmaker in the area.
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06-15-2009 12:19 AM #5
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a couple other quick questions, if i was to put a blueboard in with my ft-5, i would have to put in a g4"t in rather than a g35t or an x5ct. Is this correct? Also, could i get this shaft ordered through golfworks or is it something they would have in stock? Ive also heard a bunch of complications with removing shafts from an ft-5 because of the crown composition etc, is that really a problem? The stock shaft i had in it broke at the grip and my plan was just to have someone pop it out and to put in the diamana...
Last edited by duhast; 06-15-2009 at 03:35 AM.
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06-15-2009 06:27 AM #6
I have pulllled shafts from FT3 FT5 and FT9. A special technique is required.
Golfworks, GT will not pull them and will recommend you sending the club back to Callaway.Otherwise forget the warranty. As I wrote above it can also be drilled out
I would suggest you called GW(See below) and see what they say
Mitsubishi
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
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06-15-2009 01:58 PM #7
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Thanks. I also had some confusion about the shaft itself. I was under the impression that mitsubishi manufactures all its diamanas with .335 tips, and since callaway heads are .350 tips, theres a special blueboard that would need to fit in there, now is this co-engineered by callaway, and if so, am i still getting a quality shaft? Because ive seen diamanas on other clubs that were built "for" the company, and they are not even close to as good as their 300$ counterparts, i was just wondering if the 4" inch parallel tip version was stil the real thing or jst some collaboration with callaway thats not as good. thanks again!
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06-15-2009 04:26 PM #8
I was always told that what OEM put in their clubs is of inferior quality. That being no worries about putting a .335 shaft in your club.All you have to do is to get the right ferrule.
Check out the following. You can alter the face angle as well:
http://golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_p...9013_A_cn_E_38
or just the regular one
http://golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_p...9002_A_cn_E_38Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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06-15-2009 04:49 PM #9
Not sure if that blanket statement fits any more. This is not a stock shaft that you can get off the rack at GT. You have to special order from Callaway at a cost of $300. All of the OEMs have this now where you can special order a high end shaft. Def not the same as the stock shafts or the Made for versions, these are the real things. Even Ping has the real version of the BB stock on their V2's and I think adas has the Matrix stock as well, not seconds by any means.
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06-16-2009 03:14 AM #10
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I've noticed that the diamanas made by mitsubishi rayon all have 335 tips, and in researching the i-mix system for callaway all the shafts have 350 tips. So, paying the 300$ upgrade to callaway for the "Real" diamana(assuming it is, and not some watered down junk), i cant help but wonder how they can say that a 350 tip will play they same as a 335 tip in the same setup(say s-73 for example). I talked to a rep who said this, but that cant be right?
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06-16-2009 06:20 AM #11
The real stuff has 3 inches of parallel tip section.
http://www.mitsubishirayongolf.com//...=dia_b&lang=en
.335 shafts cost more to produce than .350 shafts.Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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06-16-2009 08:37 AM #12
Call Mitsubishi up and they will tell you that it g4t is a real version of the shaft, but they only offer the .350version to OEM's.
Read:
http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/lofive...p/t150185.html
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06-16-2009 10:35 AM #13
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The .335 will most certainly have a different bend profile than the .350, especially when one has a longer tip section than the other, so it can't be the same shaft other than the cosmetics.
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06-16-2009 07:48 PM #14
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yeah what you guys said makes sense. I've been looking at this blueboard shaft to put in my ft-5 as a substitute for the stock shaft. How much lower(ballpark) would i hit the blueboard compared to the fujikura e-150 stock(I'm looking to lower the flight to be more penetrating instead of baloonish). I also have a 10* loft and i know the ft-5 is already high launching too...ball speeds usually around 160mph. I'm just asking in general, cuz i wanna significantly lower my flight.
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06-16-2009 09:10 PM #15
Loft is the best way to lower ball flight. Re: Your other question. The only way to answer this is to compare shaft zone profiles. Perhaps you can find some info on shaftprofiles.com or go with a much stiffer shaft. Only problem though with the stiffer shaft is how much stiffer? Too stiff will feel boardy and you'll have a tendency to block it right.
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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06-16-2009 09:51 PM #16
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Ball speed #'s alone mean nothing. What's the swingspeed ? Where are you making contact on the face ? what is the loft at that point ? What is your angle of attack ? What is your launch angle ? Equipment alone will not significantly lower your ball flight if most of the fitting parameters are reasonably adequate. Perhaps it's the carpenter, and not the hammer
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