Clubmaking Factors to Offset a Hook

[mjf]

Hi,

I'm planning to build a new set of clubs for my father in the near future. He's in his late 50s and he normally hits low-ish hooks when he makes good contact. I've already bought him lessons and he's improving but, as the saying goes, it's difficult to teach an old dog new tricks. So, I was hoping that the clubs I build him will give him every benefit technology has to offer to assist him with his swing faults. I'm not expecting the clubs to 'cure' his hook, but hopefully they will reduce the severity to a managable level.

Right now, he's playing with a set of Wilson Payne Stewart irons that are more than 10 years old. Technically, I guess they're cavity-backs but it's a pretty small cavity so I imagine they play a lot like blades.

I was wondering if I could get some advice on what variables in the clubmaking formula I can use to help offset hooking the golf ball? From the research I've already done, here are some ideas I have:

- Use an oversized cavity-back head. Should help improve accuracy on good shots and reduce the number of mis-hits.

- I'll try to use as stiff a shaft as he can handle while still trying to make sure the shaft I choose fits his swing. One problem I see with this is that as he gets older, he'll likely need more flexible shafts and I'd like these clubs to last him a while.

- I understand that oversized grips may help so I might try using grips a bit oversized compared to what he has now.

- Offset clubs help with a slice right? I guess they won't do much for a hook so I'll likely try to avoid these.


Any thoughts or opinions? I'll probably just start by building him a 6-iron and see how he likes it before going with a whole set.

Thanks in advance.

[Marmotte]

Hi,

I was wondering if I could get some advice on what variables in the clubmaking formula I can use to help offset hooking the golf ball? From the research I've already done, here are some ideas I have:

- Use an oversized cavity-back head. Should help improve accuracy on good shots and reduce the number of mis-hits.

- I'll try to use as stiff a shaft as he can handle while still trying to make sure the shaft I choose fits his swing. One problem I see with this is that as he gets older, he'll likely need more flexible shafts and I'd like these clubs to last him a while.

- I understand that oversized grips may help so I might try using grips a bit oversized compared to what he has now.

- Offset clubs help with a slice right? I guess they won't do much for a hook so I'll likely try to avoid these.


Any thoughts or opinions? I'll probably just start by building him a 6-iron and see how he likes it before going with a whole set.

Thanks in advance.

I have turned 50 a couple of years ago, and had to face the problem of inconsistencies and hooks on my long irons. Here are some of the things I have tried and feel that they are working:

1. I used TrueTemper Custom Graphite shafts in A-Flex. They are very consistent when the spine is aligned. (The frequency distribution on the set was negligeable). Use graphite and don't go too stiff, unless your father is very athletic.
2. Used a Nike Pro-combo clone model for the iron heads... You can keep the tempo with short Irons and profit from the cavity back of the long ones.
3. I Forgot about the offsets for the woods... and replaced my offsets King Cobra, with some oversized heads with bigger lofts... after I discovered that offsets are nice to cure the slice, but can increase the hook. And increased the loft of the driver from 9.0 deg to 10.5 (360cc), kept 13 degrees on the 3 wood, and replacer the 5 wood by a 7 wood (21 degrees).
4. Experienced with the grips until I found one that matched my handsize and developing "arthritic skills". Tackies (Golf Pride Smoothies) ended to be my most comfy.
5. Learn to play with a 3 and 7 wood instead on a Driver and 5 wood. When you grow old, you seem also like to leave the rough to the kids!

Lesson learned... When you grow old, the "common feel" of a set seems to become more important. When you build the set, try to get a very narrow swingweight distribution (within 2 swinghweight between the extremes). This seem to be working for me and for my friends I have build sets for.

[BC MIST]

I'm planning to build a new set of clubs for my father in the near future. He's in his late 50s and he normally hits low-ish hooks when he makes good contact. I've already bought him lessons and he's improving but, as the saying goes, it's difficult to teach an old dog new tricks.

So what is wrong with being in your late 50's? Don't have to work. Actually get paid for doing nothing. Can play golf everyday instead of all the time. Priceless.

If your dad hits the ball low then playing driver and fairway woods with "R" or "A" flex shafts, and more loft will help get the ball in the air. Reducing the probability of a hook may be achieved by using stiffer shafts. There is obviously a conflict here. I would let the lessons cure the hook.

Some say oversized grips reduce the rotation through the ball, therefore reducing the possibility of a hook. IMO, this is a golfing myth. My grips are the size of a squash racquet and I can hook with the best of them.

A really heavy swingweight, say D5 or more, may also help the hooking, but the clubs would feel too heavy for an "old" man, unless he is particularly strong.

The rule of thumb is to swing the lightest most flexible club, while still maintaining control. Graphite would be best, but be careful. Some of the lighter more flexible "A" graphites may be too soft. The SK Fiber Tour Trac 80's are the best that I have used, as they are virtually spineless, consistent from shaft to shaft and relatively inexpensive. ($20?) Available from www.golfquip.com. Phone today; receive tomorrow.

I am very biased towards the Wishon products because they are well made, some are inexpensive, and they are not clones. The Wishon 752 irons are a good size cavity back iron head, 431 stainless steel, minimal offset,and provide the forgiveness that a lot of golfers could use. Check them out at www.wishongolf.com. They come in both right and left handed. If you are interested in these let me know, as I have a couple of sets on hand, a sample club made up, and because I get a price break with them, I can save you about $5 per head. You would just pay me what they cost and I would show you my bill.

If you want to use a clone, then go to www.sgdistributing.com as they have a lot of the commonly played clones and a few other good heads. If you want a cast body and a forged face with the buttery forged feel, check out SG's System 3000 Hot Forged irons. Great appearance, minimal offset, and a superb feel. Again about $20 and available in LH and RH.