Blueing Golf Clubs

[Hacker]

Has anyone tried using CLR instead of coke to strip the finish? If so, any issues. Thanks.

I used CLR - a generic version of it......same chemical composition. No issues at all - except it goes faster than a coke soak

[bobblehead]

I just use CLR and the finish was gone in minutes...wow, that's fast!

[Steelhead]

Bluing formula - $5
Hero/CLR - $7
0000 steel wool - $4

Hero stuff is a generic CLR from CT

[Hacker]

Hero stuff is a generic CLR from CT

Yup

[John]

So i'm assuming if you were going to blue satin or chrome wedges you wouldn't need to remove any finishes? Just straight to the blueing?

[bobblehead]

did my first gun blue last night...turn out great. Thanks to everyone's advice...could not have done it without you guys.

[leftylucas]

I am doing mine on Wednesday, hope they come out nice

[John]

If I wanted to do my wedges and maybe my irons and they are chrome do you just need to wash em with soap and water dry em and then wipe the blueing agent on?

[Gapwedge]

If I wanted to do my wedges and maybe my irons and they are chrome do you just need to wash em with soap and water dry em and then wipe the blueing agent on?

I would suggest that plated clubs are not prime candidates for blueing. Chrome is a plating intended to remove the potential of rust. Blueing is a different process intended to reduce the potential for rust. You either use one or the other - not both.

More info on blueing can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)

In short - only apply bluing agent to raw steel.
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[Big Johnny69]

Would this work on TM Black TP wedges?

Still haven't heard a reply to my question. Would anyone know the outcome?

[Hacker]

Still haven't heard a reply to my question. Would anyone know the outcome?

I don't really know.....the best way to find out would be a quick dip in some CLR or equivalent - if the finish comes off you're good to go, if not, then you have the answer to your question with no damage to your club.

Drop by some evening and we can try it out if you want......

[Gapwedge]

Still haven't heard a reply to my question. Would anyone know the outcome?

From the TM website:

• Head and body are 304 Stainless Steel with a "distinctive dark finish, created by a three-step oxidation process"

From the Blueing link in Wikipedia:

• "Bluing only works on steel or stainless steel parts for protecting against corrosion"
• "Blueing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface"

Based on these three data points, it would seem:

1. Your wedges are steel with a blueing-type finish.
2. The current finish is likely strippable.
3. The resultant stripped wedges would likely react well to a new bluing finish.

I agree with Hacker, however - it is best to try a small area (perhaps on the sole) first.
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[iroc]

you cannot cold blue stainless steel only chemically. unless you get yourself caswell 370 stainless steel blackener.

[Gapwedge]

you cannot cold blue stainless steel only chemically. unless you get yourself caswell 370 stainless steel blackener.

I had some spare time so checked out some of the gunsmith discussion boards. It appears stainless steel is a bit trickier than raw steel - but still doable.

Best thread I found was: http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=170397. Lots of options here to explore - but none seem simple.
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[iroc]

this will tell you everything you will need to know about blackening ss.
http://customclubworks.freewebspace....deProcess3.jpg

I thought this was the best I have read yet and gives instuctions using pool acid I think helps the blackening agent get deeping into the metal.

[The Saint]

Still haven't heard a reply to my question. Would anyone know the outcome?

That is a good question.. ...isn't the finish on them a black oxide treatment. Why don't you give it a try?

[kilmidyke]

Just re-blued this Circa.....

Same as others have done....Generic CLR courtesy of CT...full bottle into a jug, soak the club for about 10 minutes to remove all traces of rust and old blueing.

000 steel wool to remove any residues, and also surface polish, lightly does it, dont want to remove any fine mill marks.

Rinse off thoroughly in hot water and make sure it's properly dry.

Outers blueing kit...also from CT...follow the instructions!

Once it's been re-blued...I give it a good coat of silicone spray (food grade as the oil based ones can actually remove the fresh blue!) and let it dry.

Polish altenately with a soft microfibre cloth and silicone cloth and your done!

All in all about 90 minutes worth, (and yes Rob, that includes watching the 1st period of the leafs! lol). I imagine the end result can only get better the more prep work that you do, which i suppose is exactly what the professionals do!

Before pics here and afters to follow....

[kilmidyke]

...and afters....

[Hacker]

Nice work kilmidyke - she looks really good

[cdnputter]

...and afters....

Liam, I'll take it now!

[kilmidyke]

email me if you want it.

[iroc]

Did CLR do anything to your paint fill?

[Hacker]

Did CLR do anything to your paint fill?

CLR does NOT affect paintfill

[Gapwedge]

Once it's been re-blued...I give it a good coat of silicone spray (food grade as the oil based ones can actually remove the fresh blue!) and let it dry.

Excellent results!

I sometimes use a mineral oil to protect the blued finish - but only over the winter. It just seems that covering a wedge (for example) - that is supposed to grip the ball - with something slippery seems weird.
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[bobblehead]

Is a black pearl finish similar to gun blue? So coke or CLR should easily remove a black pearl finish too.

[kilmidyke]

No...black pearl is a plated finish like a pro platinum. The gun blue/black ox is a liquid, that causes a chemical reaction with the steel that turns it black. The black pearl is easier to look after than the black ox because it doesn't need to be oiled or protected, but the feel is no where near as good, the black oxide finish feels like butter and the plated finishes feel a 'clickier' imvho.

Hope that helps.

Liam.

[kilmidyke]

Excellent results!

I sometimes use a mineral oil to protect the blued finish - but only over the winter. It just seems that covering a wedge (for example) - that is supposed to grip the ball - with something slippery seems weird.

I read somewhere, TCC probably, that using a petroleum based oil will remove the finish over a quicker time period and leaves a sticky residue which means it will obviously pick up all the dirt and sand etc. A food grade silicone dries very quickly, is not sticky and protects the finish better. Dont know how true that all is really as i dont use anything other than a food grade silicone on my putters. I'm pretty sure that the cloths from Scotty and BOS are non-petroleum based too.

Again, just my $0.02 worth...take it for what it is.

Liam.

[bobblehead]

Thanks for the info.

What kind of food grade silicone do you use and where can I get it?

[kilmidyke]

Hit the baking section or just ask someone at your local grocery store. As long as it's food grade the brand doesn't matter. The one i'm using at the moment, I actually brought over from the UK when we moved here.

Just spray it on and make sure you soak the head, let it dry naturally, then lightly polish with a dry cloth to get the shine on the sole, i dont polish the top line or bumpers, just wipe them off! Works for me. lol

Do it the night before you play, every time and she'll look great all the time!

[wboudrea]

I picked up a mizuno TP Mills putter in a trade and used it for a few rounds and really liked it. It had been compleatly stripped (paintfill and all) so since I like it I decides to give re-finishing a try. I re-did the paintfill in blue and white and then gun blued it. I love the look. Only change I would make would be to buy an extra bottle of the solution to make the emersion easier. Check out the results and let me know what ya think. First three are it stripped.