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03-13-2004 03:22 PM #1
Hot Melt Experiment -- How Much Heat?
I'm experimenting with an old driver head by adding 4g of hot melt glue stick pieces through the hosel. I've heated it up twice with my heat gun and I still get a bit of a rattle. I don't want to overheat the head and ruin the finish. How much heat will totally melt the glue? How long should I heat it? Anyone have experience with this?? Thanks in advance.
Through many online searches and calls to craft stores, I belive the hot melt glue melts at 350*F (and will be stable up to 142*F) and the low temp glue melts at 250*F (and will be stable up to 120*F). Which means don't mess with too much heating when the head is shafted! Thanks to all for your comments.Last edited by PowerFade; 03-19-2004 at 03:43 PM. Reason: I think I found the answer!
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03-14-2004 11:46 AM #2
Couple questions. Where did you read/learn about this procedure? Also where is the rattle located? In the rattle in the shaft or the head? Why hot melt glue sticks instead of epoxy?
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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03-14-2004 11:48 AM #3Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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03-15-2004 12:33 AM #4
I've read about it in various other forums and have spoken to a couple class A clubmakers. There are several methods of weighting heads (I am not trying to fix a rattle--the rattle is from the glue stick pieces not being totally melted): epoxy alone, epoxy mixed with tungsten or lead powder, and hot melt. I have chosen the hot melt method because it is much easier to fix it if it becomes dislodged and starts rattling. All you have to do is heat it back up again. Right now the shaft is off and I went into the head through the hosel. There was already a hole there. After I will pug it with a plastic plug and reshaft it.
The idea is to increase the headweight, swingweight and feel of the clubhead because I like my drivers around 44" but also up to D4 if possible.
Originally Posted by Andre Cantin
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03-15-2004 07:22 AM #5
rattle
I was under the impression that you wanted to fix a rattle. Sorry about the confusion.
Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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03-15-2004 08:19 AM #6
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03-15-2004 11:09 AM #7
- Join Date
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Originally Posted by PowerFade
This is how I did it:
My driver had a swing wieght of D2, But I wanted a D4 swing weight.
I read it somewhere that for every 4 grams of grip wieght, the swing wieight will change by One point. So I decided to get a lighter grip in wieght "grams" and replace it with the original one which was heavier.
by just doing that my drivers swing wieght increased by 2 points from a D2 to a D4.
No lead weight and no no glue was added..
The lighter the grip the heavier the swing wieght becomes.
I hope this will help you.
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03-15-2004 11:17 AM #8
Steam the head as if you would steam vegetables. I am pretty sure that the glue will melt.
Strive for perfection, but never expect it!
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03-15-2004 10:00 PM #9
Now that's one I haven't heard before. Have you tried it? Do you plug the hosel so moisture dosn't get in the head? How long do you steam it? No affect on the paint? Thanks.
Originally Posted by mberube
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03-16-2004 09:01 PM #10
Heat Gun
PowerFade. What mberube is refering to is the old boiling back trick. But really all you need is a heat gun. It takes approximately 4 minutes to break the epoxy bond when pulling out shafts.Move the heat gun around and your melting problem will be a thing of the past. Since we are on the topic check out this guy's(Rick Isaac) rotisserie grill.Some people are pretty ingenious.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...258&uid=450180Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi
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03-16-2004 09:20 PM #11
This is great! I didn't know Rick had other homemade clubmaking tools. I have already made the clubhoroto and corresponded with Rick about the details. It is brilliant.
As to your suggestion, I've used the heatgun twice for 8 full minutes, and while it is mostly melted, it's not totally right. What it need it to totally liquify the hot melt glue (that's my melting problem), then position the head so the glue dries where I want the mass to be located.
I'm not sure, but I think I might not be speaking clearly. My question has nothing to do with epoxy and everything to do with pieces of glue-gun glue that I've inserted into the head of an old driver to increase the headweight and eventually to bring down my ballflight a bit (weight positioned high in the back of the head).
Oh, and I'm not clear on what you mean by "the old boiling back trick." Do you mean boiling the head to break the epoxy bond to take the shaft out?
Originally Posted by Andre Cantin
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03-19-2004 11:36 AM #12
Melting temperature ?
It is impossible to have a proper procedure if we do not know the melting point of the glue. Epoxies have a wide range of melting points. Some are arount 100 de. C and other can be as high as 240 deg C.
My suggestion would be to test the melting point with boiling water. If it fails, you may have to resort to hot sand bath or even heat gun.
The problem is that most paints used on driver heads have a relatively low tolerance to heat. Once you are going beyond boiling water, the paint will start to be affected.
Does the rattle really affet your drive ?[COLOR=Sienna][SIZE=2][FONT=Palatino Linotype]If you bury my ashes on a golf course, just make sure that they are out of bounds, that will be a natural continuation to my life[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR]
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03-17-2004 09:19 AM #13Originally Posted by PowerFadeStrive for perfection, but never expect it!
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03-18-2004 09:37 PM #14
I'll have to try that out. Thanks.
Originally Posted by mberube
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03-15-2004 09:59 PM #15
Thanks for the tip, Hanifi, but I've been there and done that. I have 39g Tour Velvet Lite grips on my TCP irons. The problem with doing this is it raises the number on the swingweight scale but does not make the head feel any heavier in your hands. It's almost a false measurement because you are changing the weight under your hands. The feel changes significantly when you add weight away from your hands, on the other end (head), but not so much on the near end. You might remember the gripless shafts that were introduced by AJ Tech in the mid-90s; the swingweight was way up there with those, but the feel was similar (not exactly the same) to gripped shafts of the same overall weight. That's my take on it anyway.
Originally Posted by Hanifi
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03-19-2004 03:41 PM #16
I Think I Found The Answer. See My Edited First Post.
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03-19-2004 04:24 PM #17
Way to go fellas!
Nice to see the forum helping solve mysteries like this!
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03-19-2004 04:39 PM #18
Final update if anyone is interested: I used my headgun on low, 2" from the sole, repositioned many times over the course of 35 minutes. I propped the heat gun so it pointed upward and put the head in a "C" clamp with the handle in the PVC holder part of my clubhoroto (worked great for adjusting the position of the head for heating and cooling). Seems to have worked just fine. I'll shaft it later tonight and give it a try asap (Mon?). If anyone wants any other details, send me a PM or post here.
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