Installing a shim

[challengegolf]

I need to install a shim in my TM burner hybrid as it is a .370 and the shaft I want to put in is .335. I already bought the shim at golfwork but now need help installing it. Do I just push it inside the hosel with the apoxy and then put more apoxy inside the shim and then just put the shaft in it and wait for the apoxy to settle?
Any help would be welcomed as I never had to put a shim before.
Thanks
Claude

[Big Johnny69]

I need to install a shim in my TM burner hybrid as it is a .370 and the shaft I want to put in is .335. I already bought the shim at golfwork but now need help installing it. Do I just push it inside the hosel with the apoxy and then put more apoxy inside the shim and then just put the shaft in it and wait for the apoxy to settle?
Any help would be welcomed as I never had to put a shim before.
Thanks
Claude

From what I've seen when a builder used a shim, you put it on the end of the shaft with epoxy and then insert it into the head (with some epoxy already in the head as well). I've never seen anyone put it in the head first and then insert the shaft.

[rockford35]

C,

While most guys get away with shimming .355T into .370 heads, it's not entirely safe. Club expoxy has little compressive strength, which is what the filling of the gap in the head is doing. It's meant for shear strength, or keeping the club together.

It's possible, but not recommended.

Just an FYI. I'm willing to bet you'll have no issues, but the method isn't proven.

R35

[lms]

I would not use a shim to do that unless it was designed for that exact application, what I mean is I would not use the generic one size fits all shim that one can buy some places.

With the shim on the shaft push it into the hosel, if it wiggles then you are counting on the epoxy to do too much. If it is a very snug fit, then you should be fine.

But I would be comfortable using the shims Tom Wishon sells for this application, as they fit tight.

[challengegolf]

Thanks for the reply. I'll do it the way you said geoff and see what happens. I'll definately try the club at a range before taking it to the course just in case the head comes out flying. If it happens then I'll just bight the bullet and but another shaft.
Claude

[LobWedge]

What you should get is a Cobra/Orlimar .335 to .365 hosel adapter. Golfsmith has them as part of a large ferrule kit. I haven't seen them as singles anywhere.

Another thing you can try is a Callaway GBBII .335 bushing ferrule. Epoxy the shaft in the adapter, and then sand the O.D. of the bushing until you get a nice clean fit in the .370 hosel. Golfworks has these.

In golf terms, .030" is a pretty big gap to fill. You should try and get the best fit possible, and one-piece bushings/adapters work very well.

[sharkhark]

my question is somewhat related. my irons are about to be shortened back to std length. They were extended a half inch with an extender in each. are they likely to just cut off the extra half of plug, or are they likely to use some method to remove the plug completely (my preference) I am guessing by heating up the steel to break the epoxy.
Sorry if this is a little off topic.

[1972Apex]

All of the above recommendations are great.
For simplicity, if I were you, I would take my shaft and head to Golfworks and ask someone who knows what they are talking about to recommend what shim to use. That's what I did when I first started making clubs and it always worked.
Once you have the shim make sure you apply the epoxy evenly on the shaft and inside of the shim and put the shim on the shaft. Then apply epoxy evenly on the outside of the shim and the inside of the hosel, just as you would do when shafting normally, and insert the shaft into the head. Do the ferrule and everything else as you would normally when inserting a shaft without a shim.
I am presuming you know how to assemble without a shim. If you do not, I would recommend you have someone who has done it before help you for your first assembly. That way there will be no guessing.
There are a lot of theories on shims. Some even say the shim provides an better epoxy bond than without one. I personally have no idea, but I've never had a club come apart with a shim in it and have absolutely no hesitation in using one as long as it is the correct one for the application. Properly applied epoxy will never come apart. 98% of the time if a head comes loose it is due to either poor epoxy mixing or improper shaft prep before epoxying.

[lms]

my question is somewhat related. my irons are about to be shortened back to std length. They were extended a half inch with an extender in each. are they likely to just cut off the extra half of plug, or are they likely to use some method to remove the plug completely (my preference) I am guessing by heating up the steel to break the epoxy.
Sorry if this is a little off topic.

I guess it depends on what you ask for, and if you/they want to achieve a certain swingweight, and what you are willing to pay for.

Steel shafts would only take a minute using a torch to pull the extensions.

[sharkhark]

I guess it depends on what you ask for, and if you/they want to achieve a certain swingweight, and what you are willing to pay for.

Steel shafts would only take a minute using a torch to pull the extensions.

I have asked for them to be pulled, they are being done thru callaway. I just wasn't sure if they were going to be able to pull them out. Sounds like you are saying it should be do-able. Thanks for the info.

[challengegolf]

Thanks Apex, that's what I thought. I did ask Golfwork and I gave them the tip size of the shaft going in and the size of the club that it was going in and they gave me the shim that I needed. I was just unsure about putting the shim. I will do as you guys recommended and epoxy the shim onto the shaft and then put epoxy as I would normally do and put the shaft into the club head.
Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.
Claude

[challengegolf]

OK my dad just brought me the shims. OK there is 5 brass thing (shim) in the box. How many am I suppose to put in as 1 shim (brass thinghy) is not really thick.
Any answer is welcome.
Thanks
Claude

[Chieflongtee]

Just 1 claude. The product code from GW should be Shim 65