V2 shafts

[Big Johnny69]

Anyone find that these play stiffer than advertised? Or are UST's frequency limits higher than the industry standard?

I was using a FT 3 with a V2 stiff (had 267 or 276 CPM, can't remember which one) on the shaft. But man, was that thing stiff. I've never played a s-flex labelled shaft that I couldn't hit. But this thing was just impossible for me to load. Now granted I'm not swinging the best right now, I can usually still feel the flex of the shaft. Anyone have any similar experiences?

["Richard"]

but geoff, I've seen you play before and must say you usually swing much harder and faster, so that may be it. Even when you were using the R7 today, they weren't going as far as you hit other drivers you've had. Its your swing, i say leave it until next year and figure it out then But you were hitting the R7 with the reax shact really well today I must say

[Big Johnny69]

It doesn't feel any slower, but maybe. Not sure of the specs of that Reax shaft, but maybe I should stick with soft tipped shafts. I like the feel of those better.

[challengegolf]

I had the V2 in reg flex and it was stiff. The pro here in Montreal told me that the V2 play to 1 flex higher than what is written.
Claude

[Big Johnny69]

Thanks Claude, that would make sense. I don't play X-flexes, and I know I couldn't feel the load on the shaft.

[Txxxxxxx]

The V2 in the new 906F2 plays between an X-Stiff and a XX-stiff eventhough it says "stiff" on the shaft.

[KickerOfElves]

Heh, good to know. I almost ordered the V2 in X...

[BC MIST]

The V2 in the new 906F2 plays between an X-Stiff and a XX-stiff eventhough it says "stiff" on the shaft.

The V-2 shafts have been profiled and are part of Tom Wishon's profiling software. Contrary to the statement above the V-2 does NOT play like an X or an XX.

In fact, the frequency specs on the V-2 S show that it has a butt flex close to the average of over 300 L, A, R , S and X profiled shafts, a little more flexible than average in the mid-section and a little stiffer than average in the tip section, but NOT a couple of "flexes" stiffer.

Shafts that are of comparable overall stiffness are the Proforce 65 S, Aldila NV 65 S,(V-2 is a little softer overall) Fujikura Vista Pro 60 S, Graffaloy Pro 65 S, SK Fiber Pure Energy S and the Graphite Design YS 7 S.

The flex that the golfer feels when he starts down from the top is the BUTT flex and what golfers describe as "loading." Loading is a poor term as it implies that the shaft then "unloads" providing some sort of "kick" or snap at impact and more club head speed. In fact, the shaft bends in the 12 to 6 oclock plane at the transition, rotates 90* by the time it gets close to impact, impact and by impact, the shaft bends FORWARD in the 3 to 9 o'clock plane. There is NO kick or snap.

If the golfer feels that the shaft is too stiff at impact, then he is feeling the effect of the stiffness of the tip section.

While the V-2 S is correctly labelled as "Stiff," it is typical of what should be stiff. I have tried the V-2 60 A, R and S flexes in my SMT Encore this year and the differences in flex are quite obvious when looking, via slow motion video, at the amount of bending that occurs at the transition. However, the club head speed with all three is the same, the feel is obviously different and the trajectory of the A was a little higher than the R and the S.

My conclusion from all of this and the posts above is that what we feel is and what really is, is NOT the same.

[Txxxxxxx]

The V-2 shafts have been profiled and are part of Tom Wishon's profiling software. Contrary to the statement above the V-2 does NOT play like an X or an XX.

In fact, the frequency specs on the V-2 S show that it has a butt flex close to the average of over 300 L, A, R , S and X profiled shafts, a little more flexible than average in the mid-section and a little stiffer than average in the tip section, but NOT a couple of "flexes" stiffer.

Shafts that are of comparable overall stiffness are the Proforce 65 S, Aldila NV 65 S,(V-2 is a little softer overall) Fujikura Vista Pro 60 S, Graffaloy Pro 65 S, SK Fiber Pure Energy S and the Graphite Design YS 7 S.

The flex that the golfer feels when he starts down from the top is the BUTT flex and what golfers describe as "loading." Loading is a poor term as it implies that the shaft then "unloads" providing some sort of "kick" or snap at impact and more club head speed. In fact, the shaft bends in the 12 to 6 oclock plane at the transition, rotates 90* by the time it gets close to impact, impact and by impact, the shaft bends FORWARD in the 3 to 9 o'clock plane. There is NO kick or snap.

If the golfer feels that the shaft is too stiff at impact, then he is feeling the effect of the stiffness of the tip section.

While the V-2 S is correctly labelled as "Stiff," it is typical of what should be stiff. I have tried the V-2 60 A, R and S flexes in my SMT Encore this year and the differences in flex are quite obvious when looking, via slow motion video, at the amount of bending that occurs at the transition. However, the club head speed with all three is the same, the feel is obviously different and the trajectory of the A was a little higher than the R and the S.

My conclusion from all of this and the posts above is that what we feel is and what really is, is NOT the same.

Uhhh...The V2 in the 906F2 plays an XX-Stiff. Sorry to say, but they have been frequency tested and because of the bore-through, they play to a XX-Stiff specification. This is not hearsay, it's been tested and the shaft does not play the same as it would or does in a non-bore-through club.

There are several discussions about this on www.golfwrx.com.

The V2 that is in the 906F2 is not the 60 gram version that you have tried. It's a 90g shaft with a 1.9° torque spec.

[Big Johnny69]

And regardless of profiling, I hit a V2 back to back with a NV 65-S and a very noticeable difference. I could actually get the ball to go straight and even left with the NV whereas I never got the ball to go anywhere but right with the V2. Just too stiff for me. And I could actually feel movement in the shaft with the NV, not so with the V2. These are my experiences with these shafts.

[Txxxxxxx]

And regardless of profiling, I hit a V2 back to back with a NV 65-S and a very noticeable difference. I could actually get the ball to go straight and even left with the NV whereas I never got the ball to go anywhere but right with the V2. Just too stiff for me. And I could actually feel movement in the shaft with the NV, not so with the V2. These are my experiences with these shafts.

I hit the NV and the V2 in the 906F2 and the V2 was brutal. The ball would launch ridiculously low.

[LobWedge]

I doubt I'll have much of a problem getting that baby to load properly Geoff.

[rgk5]

Odd. My Sasquatch 10.5/V2 "S" 65 gm, frequencies at 247 cpm. The bore thru will add some of course.

[KickerOfElves]

Aaaaand, here's why:

Tip Trimming (inches)

Driver	3W	5W	7W
0"	1"	2"	2"

Reccomended tip trimming (from UST's site) is 0", which means it will place true to flex in a standard bore...and stiffer in a through bore like a Titleist or Callaway driver.

For those who don't do any of their own club building, with a lot of other shafts you will see different tip trimming instructions for different bore types. For example, here's what Grafalloy reccomends for a Prolaunch Blue shaft of the same weight and tip size:

Woods Tip Trim	Driver	3-Wood	4-Wood	5-Wood
Through Bore	0.0"	0.5"	0.75"	1.0"
Blind Bore	0.5"	1.0"	1.25"	1.5"
Standard Bore	1.25"	1.75"	2.0"	2.25"

With shafts like the V2 you will often see a statement from the manufacturer that their shaft should not be fully inserted in a through bore clubhead.

So both sides of this debate are correct.

[mberube]

Some goes for me. I have tried the V2 stiff on a TM R7 460 and it was not a pleasant feeling. It was like swinging a 2X4. My swing speed is 110mph.

Mike

[mberube]

Shafts that are of comparable overall stiffness are the Proforce 65 S, Aldila NV 65 S,(V-2 is a little softer overall) Fujikura Vista Pro 60 S, Graffaloy Pro 65 S, SK Fiber Pure Energy S and the Graphite Design YS 7 S.

Lyle,

I have a Aldila NV 65 S and Graffaloy Pro 65 S and I also tried the Reax S on the TM 460 (we have the complete TM kit and our course) and none of them feel remotely as stiff as the V2 S.

Mike

[BC MIST]

Uhhh...The V2 in the 906F2 plays an XX-Stiff. Sorry to say, but they have been frequency tested and because of the bore-through, they play to a XX-Stiff specification. This is not hearsay, it's been tested and the shaft does not play the same as it would or does in a non-bore-through club.

There are several discussions about this on www.golfwrx.com.

The V2 that is in the 906F2 is not the 60 gram version that you have tried. It's a 90g shaft with a 1.9° torque spec.

In the posts above there was no mention that the V-2 in question was the very low torque, 95 gram version, nor was it mentioned that the driver head in question was a through bore. It now makes sense as to why the shaft FEELS a lot stiffer than many others including the V-2 60 g version. To use this kind of shaft effectively, the golfer must have a high swing speed AND a very late release of the wrist kock axis.

In the original post it was mentioned that the frequency may have been 267 cpm's, and that is a classic STIFF shaft using frequencies that come with a frequency analyzer with a 5" clamp. But, this is BUTT stiffness only.

I played much of the season with the V-2 60 S and did NOT find it felt stiff for my powder puff, 100 mph swing speed and yet when I used the NV S, I disliked it immensely because of the excessively stiff feeling and lower ball flight.

FYI: The following represents the numbers comparing the V-2 60 S, NV 65 and the V-2 95 S.
V-2 60 S 175 203 232 280 348 487 829
NV 65 S 176 200 234 285 371 511 825
V-2 95 S 180 208 235 280 351 496 909

Some of these numbers don't jive with some of the observations that we all have made, except that the 11" measurement of the 95 is significantly stiffer than the other two. But I stand by my statement that contradicts the ones above that say that the V-2 95 is an X or XX as the BUTT stiffness, the one used to label a shaft regular, stiff or extra stiff, is only 4 cpm's higher than the NV, an amount that any one of us would NOT be able to detect. The numbers don't lie but FEEL does. Regardless of how anything feels, the only thing that should count is BALL FLIGHT and 99% of your ball flight is determined by how you swing and not by the stiffness, torque, colour, weight, balance point or profile of the shaft, which probably contradicts the commonly held view.

[KickerOfElves]

I'm debating on picking up the V2-75 in X, but looking at the Specs for the 65, now I'm torn.

Here's the 75:

Flex	RSSR(mph)*	Profile	Torque	WT (Gr)	Tip Dia.	Butt Dia.	Length	P.T.S.@
R	90-100		2.2	75	.335"	.605"	46"	4.00"
S	100-110		2.2	76	.335"	.605"	46"	4.00"
X	110-120		2.2	76	.335"	.605"	46"	4.00"

And here's the 65:

Flex	RSSR(mph)*	Profile	Torque	WT (Gr)	Tip Dia.	Butt Dia.	Length	P.T.S.@
R	85-95		3.0	65	.335"	.600"	46"	4.00"
S	95-105		3.0	65	.335"	.600"	46"	4.00"
X	105-115		2.9	66	.335"	.600"	46"	4.00"

I'd like the heavier weight, but the recommended swing speed of the 65 means it might be a better shaft the days I'm not swinging so well.

This is going in a standard bore.

[Daft_driver]

Just finished a round with my new Hibore and V2-65-X and absolutely love the shaft. Very responsive, and does not feel overly stiff to me. Just a little more than my Aldila NV65-X...

[BC MIST]

I'm debating on picking up the V2-75 in X, but looking at the Specs for the 65, now I'm torn.


I'd like the heavier weight, but the recommended swing speed of the 65 means it might be a better shaft the days I'm not swinging so well.

This is going in a standard bore.

If your swing speed is within the range of both shafts then the fitting concensus is to go with the lightest, most flexible one.

[Txxxxxxx]

In the posts above there was no mention that the V-2 in question was the very low torque, 95 gram version, nor was it mentioned that the driver head in question was a through bore. It now makes sense as to why the shaft FEELS a lot stiffer than many others including the V-2 60 g version. To use this kind of shaft effectively, the golfer must have a high swing speed AND a very late release of the wrist kock axis.

In the original post it was mentioned that the frequency may have been 267 cpm's, and that is a classic STIFF shaft using frequencies that come with a frequency analyzer with a 5" clamp. But, this is BUTT stiffness only.

I played much of the season with the V-2 60 S and did NOT find it felt stiff for my powder puff, 100 mph swing speed and yet when I used the NV S, I disliked it immensely because of the excessively stiff feeling and lower ball flight.

FYI: The following represents the numbers comparing the V-2 60 S, NV 65 and the V-2 95 S.
V-2 60 S 175 203 232 280 348 487 829
NV 65 S 176 200 234 285 371 511 825
V-2 95 S 180 208 235 280 351 496 909

Some of these numbers don't jive with some of the observations that we all have made, except that the 11" measurement of the 95 is significantly stiffer than the other two. But I stand by my statement that contradicts the ones above that say that the V-2 95 is an X or XX as the BUTT stiffness, the one used to label a shaft regular, stiff or extra stiff, is only 4 cpm's higher than the NV, an amount that any one of us would NOT be able to detect. The numbers don't lie but FEEL does. Regardless of how anything feels, the only thing that should count is BALL FLIGHT and 99% of your ball flight is determined by how you swing and not by the stiffness, torque, colour, weight, balance point or profile of the shaft, which probably contradicts the commonly held view.

I mentioned the 906F2 which is made by Titleist and is a bore-through in an earlier post. You might have missed it though and maybe not knowing the specs of the shafts in the 906F2.

My swing speed is 110 or so, and as I said, the V2 is stupid low torque and feels like crap in that club. I've never played it in any other clubs, but I hear the lighter, higher torque version works well in the 905R.

[Big Johnny69]

BTW, I wasn't aware the FT was a bore through. No plug on the sole. The new X-Tour driver is a bore through, but I don't think the FT is.

[lms]

I think it is a blind bore - not sure how deep, but if it is deep enough it will result in the same characteristics BCMist is describing, i.e it will flex as if you had tipped the shaft and installed it in a standard bore, unless of course the manufacturer accomodates for this by telling you to tip the shaft in a standard bore. Golfsmith's UST V2 tip trimming instructions says tip 0" in a driver, so your resulting flex will vary depending on the driver you install it in. In an smt deep bore the shaft would go in 2 1/4", vs. about an inch in an R7.

Standard Bore: The shaft penetrates the hosel no more than one inch.

Through Bore: The shaft penetrates the hosel and continues all the way through the sole such that the tip is exposed if you were to hold the club upside down.

Blind Bore: The shaft penetrates the hosel and continues all the way to the sole plate, but is not exposed.

[Chieflongtee]

They will play approx the same if installed properly. 0 tip trimming is mostly for through bores. If you take a raw shaft of 46 inches and dry fit the head and you get 47.5 inches as total club length then you you have to tip trim 1 and 1/2 . What is omitted here is hosel length. The longer the hosel the stiffer the shaft is going to feel. Some clubmakers use a plug to make a shaft play softer when dealing with a longer hosel.

[Chieflongtee]

[QUOTE=lms] In an smt deep bore the shaft would go in 2 1/4", vs. about an inch in an R7.

QUOTE]

Ok. So it goes deeper but you end up tip trimming more than if it were a standard bore. Therefore when you cut the club for final playing length you will end up cutting more of the butt section which is always the stiffest part of the shaft.

[lms]

If you take a raw shaft of 46 inches and dry fit the head and you get 47.5 inches as total club length then you you have to tip trim 1 and 1/2 .

The bottom line is you dryfit the shaft, measure the frequency, and if possible trim to achieve your goal. You "may" need to tip trim to achieve the your goal depending on the driver head, desired shaft length, etc.

[lms]

[quote=Chieflongtee]

In an smt deep bore the shaft would go in 2 1/4", vs. about an inch in an R7.

QUOTE]

Ok. So it goes deeper but you end up tip trimming more than if it were a standard bore.

???

[Chieflongtee]

The bottom line is you dryfit the shaft, measure the frequency, and if possible trim to achieve your goal. You "may" need to tip trim to achieve the your goal depending on the driver head, desired shaft length, etc.

Agreed. If you don't have a frequency meter though this is imo the best method to achieve the manufacturer's flex.

[lmh3]

I have the V2 in all of my woods, r7 425 TP, r7 TP Fairways (3 & 5), and TP Rescue Dual. Don't find it to play any stiffer than other shafts that I have played.

[Big Johnny69]

I have the V2 in all of my woods, r7 425 TP, r7 TP Fairways (3 & 5), and TP Rescue Dual. Don't find it to play any stiffer than other shafts that I have played.

The guy I traded the club to thinks the shaft might have been tipped. He's looking into it, but that would explain the extra stiffness.