Titleist 983E reshaft opinions

[wojo58]

another lurker emerges....

I love everything about my new 983E....except the stock Graphalloy prolite S. This shaft is just dead in this club. I'm sure it's the 2.5 (or whatever) bore-through killing the tip, but I also think the shaft is too light for me ( hey, I thought I would try something different)

Anyway, looking for new shaft,and was wondering if anyone here has gone down this road before. My index is about 5 and my driver swing speed is 114, with an aggressive move to the ball

Rich W

" never met a blade I didn't like..."

[Golfbum]

How about a Grafalloy Blue Stiff? Or X stiff maybe? Mid kick, friend of mine has one in his 983, Stiff and he loves it. Might not swing quite as hard as you do, but he gets the head through the ball quickly. He was playing with the X Stiff but changed it to the S and was stripeing it last summer.

[BC MIST]

Mid kick,

[wojo58]

Perhaps this question would be better in the club making section?

To paraphrase my question, which shafts have been true(r) to flex when inserted in the Titleist bore through? I think some shafts retain their playing qualities, while other just "die" ......i.e., grafalloy Prolite.

BC Mist..sorry, don't understand your reply

BTW, I find this forum quite informative...especially the instruction section

[GrassRootsTour]

The bad news with the new Titleist woods (with the aluminum hozel, ie 905 T, S, and R) is that pulling the existing shaft is impossible without requiring a new aluminum sleeve to put in the hozel which they wont sell you.
You going to have to cut the shaft and drill the remaining part out of the head to reshaft it.

The Accra T60 works well in that head, IMHO.

[Golfbum]

The bad news with the new Titleist woods (with the aluminum hozel, ie 905 T, S, and R) is that pulling the existing shaft is impossible without requiring a new aluminum sleeve to put in the hozel which they wont sell you.
You going to have to cut the shaft and drill the remaining part out of the head to reshaft it.

The Accra T60 works well in that head, IMHO.

He is reshafting a 983, not a 905T,S or R.

[M_Portiss]

The bad news with the new Titleist woods (with the aluminum hozel, ie 905 T, S, and R) is that pulling the existing shaft is impossible without requiring a new aluminum sleeve to put in the hozel which they wont sell you.
You going to have to cut the shaft and drill the remaining part out of the head to reshaft it.

The Accra T60 works well in that head, IMHO.

Sorry Will, this is incorrect information. You CAN pull the 905 shafts. Titleist actually says you can pull them like any other club. (As long as it is the first reshaft.. Titty used Low heat Epoxy on them..) The epoxy they use when setting them originally comes off quite easily. ON TOP OF THAT, if you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, you can always use the Hot-Rod method. If your club builder does not know what the Hot Rod Method is, you need to find another club builder.

Either way, he is talking about the 983, not the 905. 983's are just a pain in that ass since the shaft is in the head for 2.5 inches... No shims in 975/983's.. Only 905...

If you want the shaft to have all of its tip-characteristics, you could always blind-bore it.

[GrassRootsTour]

Sorry Will, this is incorrect information. You CAN pull the 905 shafts. Titleist actually says you can pull them like any other club. (As long as it is the first reshaft.. Titty used Low heat Epoxy on them..) The epoxy they use when setting them originally comes off quite easily. ON TOP OF THAT, if you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, you can always use the Hot-Rod method. If your club builder does not know what the Hot Rod Method is, you need to find another club builder.

Either way, he is talking about the 983, not the 905. 983's are just a pain in that ass since the shaft is in the head for 2.5 inches... No shims in 975/983's.. Only 905...

If you want the shaft to have all of its tip-characteristics, you could always blind-bore it.

My bad, I thought for some stupid reason we were discussing the 905 series.

The 983 series is the best set of drivers Titleist ever made, IMHO.

[SkinDawg]

u cant ask that question with out discussing what you are looking for in a shaft. it really depends on what kind of ball flight you are looking for and what you are looking to spend. after you tell me this , i can give you some valid answers

[wojo58]

. My previous driver is a 975J 9.5 with stock Speeder, which I hit fairly well... unless I lean on it, in which case its been exit stage left. So, to re-introduce myself to the fairway, I thought I would try something different: something lighter and stiffer. A 10.5 983E with a stock titleist Prolite35S. I like the Grafalloy in my fairway wood, so why not? The driver freqs out at 267( 5" clamp grip on) which is a solid X, @ D3; should be perfect. Eh. The launch and trajectory are just too low, and I don't really feel the club while I swing. So...red shaft out. What color to bring in?

I know the Fuji Titleist "Speeder" is something of a propriatory Vista Pro 70 with a softer tip , so using that shaft as a base I thought maybe a Vista Pro 80(S) or a Tour Platform 27.3 in (X). BTW, what system does Fuji use to rate shafts on their web site? Other shafts I'm considering:

TT NVS75 X
Graphite Design Y7-9 in SX or X
UST/Harmon CBX

My driver before the J was a 975D with a TT EI70(S) and I loved that shaft. Don't know how the new EI70s rate. I know they're cheap.

RIch W



" Are you sure he's already got one"
" Oh yes, it'sa very nice"
" I told em we already got one..."

[strohmoose]

I have pulled and reshafted my 983 several times and finally decide to plug the bore through to make it in effect a "blind-bore." That way any shaft I want to install will give me the true flex and trajectory. I use GS 60/40 epoxy with great success.

[Weirfan]

I have pulled and reshafted my 983 several times and finally decide to plug the bore through to make it in effect a "blind-bore." That way any shaft I want to install will give me the true flex and trajectory. I use GS 60/40 epoxy with great success.

this is a very good thing to do if u can sacrafice the shaft in there. I have done many this way.

cut shaft off at the hosel top and progressively drill out the hosel to a depth of about 1.5 - 2 inches.

depending on whether you are a early or late releaser of the club.....I would suggest you go with a heavier shaft 75+ gram or so with a stiffer profile.

[dbleber]

I'm no club maker but I have had a lot of Titleist clubs and had them reshafted and I have always found that if you go to a club maker that knows what they are doing then they should be able to fit you for a shaft that will work in a bore thru head. If the club maker doesn't know how to properly prep a shaft for a bore thru head or doesn't know how to help you pick a proper shaft that will allow him to take the bore thru into consideration, then I would find a better club maker. But I would listen to anyones recommendation for which brand of shaft because everybody is so different in what they like in a shaft. Find a good club maker and tell him what you want your end result ball flight to be and he should be able to fit you properly.

[Weirfan]

I'm no club maker but I have had a lot of Titleist clubs and had them reshafted and I have always found that if you go to a club maker that knows what they are doing then they should be able to fit you for a shaft that will work in a bore thru head. If the club maker doesn't know how to properly prep a shaft for a bore thru head or doesn't know how to help you pick a proper shaft that will allow him to take the bore thru into consideration, then I would find a better club maker. But I would listen to anyones recommendation for which brand of shaft because everybody is so different in what they like in a shaft. Find a good club maker and tell him what you want your end result ball flight to be and he should be able to fit you properly.

Certainly you can do it this way and I have done probably 10 titty’s as a bore thru .

However, there is absolutely no reason or advantage to doing it this way.....none.
The selection of shafts available to do it this way is severely limited versus plugging the bore and doing it as a std bore.

Reason being that there is 3 inches of shaft in the head and cut on an angle so at least you need a shaft with a parallel tip section of 4 inches. Or find a shaft with less PTS that responds well to excessive tipping or in this case tip subemersion ....the NV 65 is one such shaft that can be tipped a whack more than they state so is used a fair bit in the Titty.

Titleist did/does have special shafts made for their drivers with elongated Parallel tip sections ( not available to us) this way they could control the repair aspect as well.
Add to this that the cost to do a bore thru is typically up to 2x the price of a std install and the fact that if you choose to pull the shaft at some point....the pull is tougher and the shaft with a 4 inch abraded section is essentially useless in another driver head and has poor resale.....if you can lop off 2 inches you could likely use it somewhere.

The drill out is a bit dirty but for anyone, club maker or hobbyist it is the better way.
A good and responsible clubamaker should explain the options.

Whenever someone brings a Titleist driver or fw into me to do...I give them the above scenario....most choose the drill out, some who want to keep the shaft get me to pull it but still plug the bore and do a std install.......others want the club to remain as it was so I re-shaft it as a bore thru and charge more.
The chances for success are way higher for anyone . Good clubmaker or not. The reason many peeps hate their titty after a reshaft is because it was done incorrectly.......typically a shaft with too short a PTS or they did not drop a flex or more on the shaft to accomodate the bore through
Again there is no advantage to having it redone as a bore through......only disadvantages.
Cally’s are bore through but a different story as the shaft in the hosel is way less so they are always done as they came.
Whatever you choose good luck !

[dbleber]

I didn't say that making it a non bore thru by plugging or drilling was wrong, I just said that you should get the job done by a pro club maker. If that club maker thinks that the best shaft for you will work to the best proformance by doing what you explained then fine, but I haven't had to do that to any of my Titleist clubs in order to get the proper performance, the club maker just did what I paid him to do and that's make it work by selecting the proper shaft and tipping/preping it properly. If you do any type of modification then say good bye to resale value because the workmanship will always be in question, although it doesn't really matter with an older club such as this.

[Weirfan]

I didn't say that making it a non bore thru by plugging or drilling was wrong, I just said that you should get the job done by a pro club maker. If that club maker thinks that the best shaft for you will work to the best proformance by doing what you explained then fine, but I haven't had to do that to any of my Titleist clubs in order to get the proper performance, the club maker just did what I paid him to do and that's make it work by selecting the proper shaft and tipping/preping it properly. If you do any type of modification then say good bye to resale value because the workmanship will always be in question, although it doesn't really matter with an older club such as this.

I agree that an experienced and good clubfitter should be able to do it....my point are infinitely greater selection of shafts to use the other way...

BTW I am a quite experienced clubfitter and maker myself......I am just saying that IMO there are better ways to get the club to work and a better recourse if it does not

Also....it is in no way a modification just another way to reshaft a club...no different than installing grips logo up or down......something else a good clubmaker should discuss with you and there can be pros and cons....

It should not in any way negatively affect resale ...and I would argue that it could boost it as the shaft if it was not suitable for the buyer is more useable as a pull out not to mention easier to extract

In any event you could not tell by looking if the shaft was installed as a bore through or was drilled out or plugged as the sole finishing is the exact same on them all.....

[downhillslider]

The bad news with the new Titleist woods (with the aluminum hozel, ie 905 T, S, and R) is that pulling the existing shaft is impossible without requiring a new aluminum sleeve to put in the hozel which they wont sell you.
You going to have to cut the shaft and drill the remaining part out of the head to reshaft it.

The Accra T60 works well in that head, IMHO.

WRONG !!

[strohmoose]

I have been reshafting my Tiity drivers for all of the years that they have had bore throughs and I have found that if you want a tip stiff driver then go ahead with the bore through. The club will play about 3/4 flex stiffer and feel dead compared to the OEM stock shaft.

I am a soft swinger with a swing speed of about 104. At 64 that is not too bad even though Iwish for more. therefor I prefer the Grafalloy Prolite 35 as oppose the harsh feel of the NV's. I have always used a Mitchell puller and a butane torch with great success. With proper technique the new Titties should pull out just as easily as the early Ping and Callaway drivers.

I have all six of my current Tiities "ColdFired" (cryogenic treatment like Tiger's) and see no reason to go to tghe newer models. It is all in the engine of the club anyway i.e. the correct shaft. my 975's and 983K are just as good as the newest model.

I only shaft for myself and have been working on my own clubs since 1966 because I know what I want from them.