Reaming .355 to .370

[The Saint]

Who has done this and what are your experiences?

[Big Johnny69]

I always wondered, I know its steel, but how much does this affect the integrity of the hosel?

And don't know about the rest of you, but when you say it, it sounds painful.

[jvincent]

I haven't reamed any heads but I have drilled out (reaming is actually supposed to be easier) some heads using a 3/8 bit. Don't sweat the extra diameter. I usually use Rifles which almost always seem to be slightly over 370 anyway.

If you are talking carbon steel, it's a piece of cake. It's like going through butter.

431 stainless, now we're talking work. When I drilled out my 845s to take a 370 shaft and it took me probably 3 hours spread over two days.

As to the integrity of the heads, very little material is being removed, and the weakest point of the head is actually below the bottom of the hosel bore anyway, so it's not a big deal.

[LobWedge]

It's only a difference of 15/1000 of an inch. Should have no effect on structural integrity. That being said, you should have someone with the proper set-up to do this for you to make sure that the bore is centred, straight and not too deep.

[Chieflongtee]

I saw BC Mist do it once. Piece of cake. Within 10 minutes he had done the whole set. Reaming is better than drilling. I'll have more on that later.I just acquired the GS clamp and the reaming bit. Actually the first part of the hosel is parallel so you are only removing a bit of the bottom part of the hosel.

[Chieflongtee]

Take Richard Kennedy's advice.
http://www.clubmaker-online.com/rk.drillpress.html

R E A M E R S, R E A M I N G, A N D D R I L L I N G
------------------------------------------------------------------
Ro, STOP do not pass go or you'll go to jail. Since you don't have
one of my fine drill fixtures you have to do it the very hard way.
Ro never and I mean NEVER try and drill anything out on club heads
with a hand drill. I the first rule to screwing things up is by
using a hand drill. Too high of a speed, not enough pressure.
Plus you MUST USE A REAMER when drilling out tapered bores.
Cobalt, Carbide drills for our line of work is over kill. The SS
that we work with is very mild compared to other higher chrome
stainless's. Complete waste of money. I have never in all my tool
making life ever used a cobalt drill, used a lot of carbide for drilling
REAL hard metals but never a cobalt. Cobalt lathe tools is a whole
other matter.

[Chieflongtee]

Best tools for the job

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/8282

http://www.golfsmith.com/browse.php?....x=5&image.y=7

[1972Apex]

It removes very little metal and does not affect the structural integrity of the hosel (when done properly of course).
The only real negative I have about it is that when those clubs are resold or traded in it is seldom disclosed. And if it is, it can affect the value. When I buy a set of irons that were originally taper tips, I prefer if they really are taper tips.

[Chieflongtee]

It removes very little metal and does not affect the structural integrity of the hosel (when done properly of course).
The only real negative I have about it is that when those clubs are resold or traded in it is seldom disclosed. And if it is, it can affect the value. When I buy a set of irons that were originally taper tips, I prefer if they really are taper tips.

I agree 100% but on the other hand the parallel shafts offer a lot more options.

[Chieflongtee]

From the instructions:
500-700 rpms for stainless steel
1000-1200 rpms for aluminum and titanium.

[The Saint]

Now without some kind of digital read out from your drill press how are you going to know if it's 500 rpms or 1000 rpms?

From the instructions:
500-700 rpms for stainless steel
1000-1200 rpms for aluminum and titanium.

[Chieflongtee]

Now without some kind of digital read out from your drill press how are you going to know if it's 500 rpms or 1000 rpms?

Drill press has 5 different settings i.e how the driving belt is adjusted.(Canadian Tire 5 speed drill press)On the drill press it tells you how to adjust the belt to obtain the dsired rpms. If you don't have a drill press and you are to use a hand drill I guess your only other alternative is to use a dimmer switch.

[Chieflongtee]

Drill press has 5 different settings i.e how the driving belt is adjusted.(Canadian Tire 5 speed drill press)On the drill press it tells you how to adjust the belt to obtain the dsired rpms. If you don't have a drill press and you are to use a hand drill I guess your only other alternative is to use a dimmer switch.

Saint. Please ignore the above post. After speaking to a long time clubmaker and machinist the ideal reaming speed is no faster than 150 rpms which means if you have a cheap drill press you won't be able to go down to that speed.

[TourIQ]

Best tools for the job

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/8282

http://www.golfsmith.com/browse.php?....x=5&image.y=7

Hi Chieflongtee

$18 USD for a HSS reamer is way too expensive. I bought several a few years ago out of Wholesale Tool I think for like $3 each. If you call them sometimes they have a few on closeout cheaper.

[TourIQ]

Who has done this and what are your experiences?

Hi Saint

I ream taper tip hosels when the customer wants a 'blueprinted' set to exceed tour quality, since I have never figured out how to frequency match a taper tip shaft.

It's likely an OEM head so tell the customer the reaming will void the factory warranty. That is what the OEM's have told me, but my customers are interested in performance and want to keep their clubs, not sell them with each new marketing claim.

NEVER NEVER NEVER drill a hosel, unless you want a broken arm or a piece of stainless protruding out of your skull ... this is the most dangerous job clubmaking wise I know. Its best to have the right tools and do it safely or let someone do it who can.

My recommendations, and the tools I use:

> I purchased the Richard Kennedy Drill Fixture, and never use my Golfsmith unit anymore. His drill fixture is more money but the best.
> I ream at 195 rpm, as that is the lowest speed ratio I can get from my 16-speed drill press. Richard Kennedy told me not to go over 200 rpm.
> I use a carbide tipped 0.372 inch diameter carbide tipped reamer, and have used HSS reamers too but they won't last as long.
> Don't cheap out and buy a 3/8th (0.375) inch diamter reamer as the hosel:shaft fit will be sloppy
> Buy staight flute reamer not right or left hand spiral design
> I don't even bolt down the drill fixture as there is no movement at all (smooth)
> I put a few drop of cutting fluid down the hosel and coat the bottom of reamer
> Don't forget to clean out the chips and clean the hosel with generous acetone
> Measure with a vernier to ensure you have consistent hosel depth of cut

When my son got his new MP-30's and Vokey 200 series chrome 3-years ago, we pulled the shafts and reamed the hosels, then built up the set ... this was before any single club had hit its first ball. Within 5 months he would shoot a course record '64' to a club that is 55-years old. Like I said, performance not warranty.

I agree with the other guy. If you sell them, you should tell the buyer that they no longer have taper tip shafts. Reaming does not affect the hosel or head integrity. I would think the hosel weight port would be more determint than removing 0.007".

If you have to use a drill bit then leave the job to someone who can do it without hurting themselves ...

[Chieflongtee]

Hi Chieflongtee

$18 USD for a HSS reamer is way too expensive. I bought several a few years ago out of Wholesale Tool I think for like $3 each. If you call them sometimes they have a few on closeout cheaper.

GREAT post Harry. I checked out wholesaletool and the closest I found so far is .373 High speed(what's a high speed reamer?)http://wttool.com/p/1154-2010
Anyway the problem with wholesale tools is that they are located in the US. Their .373 reamer is $8.00 + shipping + whatever duties. i also found another place www.reamers.com and they are also located in the US. So $18 was not bad considering that I got free shipping from Mississauga and a $15 coupon for an order over $150.
Back to reaming. Richard kennedy wrote on ST yesterday that the ideal speed was 150 rpms. I also understand from speaking to another experienced clubmaker that Forged irons are the easiest to ream. Casts are a little harder.
Another guy on ST has step drilled a set of BECU irons. Those are tough as nails.
Now if I can only find a reaming supplier in Ottawa I will be set.

[Chieflongtee]

I have just finished reaming successfully a set of Becu irons with my baby drill press(@500 rpms) the GS reamer bit and at tad of cutting/drilling oil.

[The Saint]

Congrats!!!.. How's the fit??? Is 500 RPM the slowest speed on your drill press?
What kind of reamming vise did you use?

I have just finished reaming successfully a set of Becu irons with my baby drill press(@500 rpms) the GS reamer bit and at tad of cutting/drilling oil.

[Chieflongtee]

Congrats!!!.. How's the fit??? Is 500 RPM the slowest speed on your drill press?
What kind of reamming vise did you use?

The fit is perfect. I used the reaming vise sold by Golfsmith. the lowest rpm on my drill press is 500 rpms.(Canadian Tire) I have seen a drill press at Busy Bee that will go as low as 40 but sells for over $250.

[TourIQ]

I have just finished reaming successfully a set of Becu irons with my baby drill press(@500 rpms) the GS reamer bit and at tad of cutting/drilling oil.

Hi Chieflongtee

What was the diameter of the GS reamer you bought?
Great that you got a perfect fit. Now to hit those puppies.

[Chieflongtee]

.370 Harry. The puppies are not for me

[TourIQ]

Thanks for the update on the reamer size.

[rgk5]

Truly said and wise to heed this advice.

[TourIQ]

Truly said and wise to heed this advice.

Hi rgk5

Do you mean 'Truly sad and unwise to give this advise'?
If so, please explain WHY. I would really love to hear from an expert.