My set is complete!

["Richard"]

here it is, you will not see me posting about new clubs anymore

I went with the adams RPM 460cc dual driver. Got it really really cheap. Its got a reg flex and my friend bought a taylormade r580xd stock stiff shaft and we are going to swap shafts cause i need stiff and he needs reg so it works out awesome.

My 4w is a callaway x. I need something witha really shallow face and a bit more lofted than 15* and at 17* this is perfect for me.


So, I'm done! Will edit the sig now

[rgk5]

Watch the swing weight as the Adams head is designed for a longer shaft than the MAS.

["Richard"]

Yeah someone else mentioned that as well but if I got any driver I would be cutting the shaft down to 44" maybe even 43.5 and then my 4w down to 42.. will that work or do I need to hold off on this?

*Edit* Just spoke to the guy at golftown. He said, if the shafts are the same length and same weight then its not an issue and even if you put a lighter shaft into your club you can just add some led tape to the bottom of the club to get the swing seight back. Fro my buddies r580xd with the fiji shaft, if its longer we can just cut it so its the same as the one I took from him. And for mine, I was going to cut it anyway and will add the tape to get the weigh back up. Good point, didn't even think of that. Guess I will have to do that with my callaway wood as well if I cut it

[rgk5]

You can add a 6 or 8 gram weight tip to the shaft to compensate.

["Richard"]

You can add a 6 or 8 gram weight tip to the shaft to compensate.

what does that mean? Is that good or bad?

[BC MIST]

what does that mean? Is that good or bad?

It is like a skinnt "T" shaped piece of, presumably lead, that fits in the shaft tip and the head section is the same diameter as the diameter of the shaft(.335") It will add 3 to 4 SW points to the club.

Before you exchange shafts with your friend, try to find out what the frequency of the shaft is, as there is no such thing as "Regular" or "Stiff." If they are stock shafts it is even more important that you find out as it is even possible that the R is stiffer than the S. Remember too, that if you shorten the club by 1.5" that your S, if that is what it really is, will become a X, or if you keep the R and cut 1.5" from it, it will become an S.

[leftylucas]

I know you have spent a lot of money and that you are very committed to improving your golf game. You are investing in getting the right equipment for yourself, training hours/day but why OH why are you not seeing a professional clubfitter to get the right shaft at the right length anf the right flex????? This is one area that is probably as important if not more important than the actual club, the shaft. GT will not cut the mustard. Spend the $50.00 and go see a good "independant" clubfitter who will test you on a proper launch monitor (If you have not already), test your shafts and fit you properly. The clubfitter is the best person to fit you, do not put a shaft on becuase it is "convenient". I can personally attest to the results of having the right shafts on my clubs installed by a professional. You will not regret it.

[Big Johnny69]

I think you answered your own question lefty. It saves him $50 and its convinient.

BTW, my bag is set as well, check out the updated sig!

["Richard"]

lefty you changed my mind. My friend is just going to get the reg flex driver. I'm going to take this driver to that place you guys told me about and get custome fit for it. Then buy a shaft he tells me to and then go from there. Thanks for knocking some sense into this club ho. One easy way to spot a club ho... buys and does things that make no sense what so ever!

[leftylucas]

Thotho you will be very happy you did. I believe that Don at Artisan Golf has a special on right now for the launch monitor at $39.00 but it may have passed. It ended in Feb but he extended it for a week more or so. Good luck.

Don is great and will not steer you wrong. My average drive probably increased 15 yds and my accuracy by 50%. Sure I have yet to boom one passed 300 yds like before my fitting but then again I was spraying it all over the fairway(s). I could hit a lot longer before my fitting but now my "average" is longer and my fairways hit is way up. Even my misses are not far off track. I am visiting him later this year to get my irons properly fitted. The only problem with all of this "Tweaking" is that one can no longer blame the equipment for a bad round!!!!

["Richard"]

Wow I just talked to DON. He sounds really nice. I told him I'm in toronto and will be there at the end of march and he said no problem its still $39. So I'm giong to do that for sure!!! I have golftown credit left so I'll probably buy the shaft there if he can find one that they sell that suits me but worst case, I'll buy it from him and hold onto the shaft. Eitherway, thanks again for saving me from making yet another stupid mistake.

["Richard"]

Geoff, I saw this already. Are you by any chance cover your ***** incase you john kerry (flip flop) again? that way you can say... well its all right there in my sig... hahah

I think you answered your own question lefty. It saves him $50 and its convinient.

BTW, my bag is set as well, check out the updated sig!

["Richard"]

wait, if I go see Don and he says hey the 10* loft on this RPM isn't high enough for you. You need an 11* driver then I'm screwed. I guess I will get my friend to buy the r580xd in his flex, I'll take the RPM i told him I would buy from him and sell it on ebay... if DON says the loft isn't right for me. what heads do they have there? How do they compare to talyormade heads? ping heads? Any ideas?

[Big Johnny69]

Geoff, I saw this already. Are you by any chance cover your ***** incase you john kerry (flip flop) again? that way you can say... well its all right there in my sig... hahah

No need to flip flop. Everything I have in my bag is in my sig. Its all listed, nothing to hide.

[Chieflongtee]

Remember too, that if you shorten the club by 1.5" that your S, if that is what it really is, will become a X, or if you keep the R and cut 1.5" from it, it will become an S.

How is that so? You are shortening the beam length but not the shaft's integrity. You ar also cutting the butt end which is the stiffest part of the club. It may feel stiffer because it won't flex as much (A long stiff driver will feel more flexible in the golfer's hands than let's say a 5 iron of the same flex). Please explain this myth.

[BC MIST]

How is that so? You are shortening the beam length but not the shaft's integrity. You ar also cutting the butt end which is the stiffest part of the club. It may feel stiffer because it won't flex as much (A long stiff driver will feel more flexible in the golfer's hands than let's say a 5 iron of the same flex). Please explain this myth.

I agree that the flex designation may not change because of the arbitrarily chosen gap of about 4 cpm's between clubs. While this may be traditional, it is not a rule of clubmaking, and as you know, the gap between clubs may be fewer cpm's, if any. How do you designate clubs if the gap is 2 cpm's? I believe in single frequency matching where all clubs have the same frequency. Mine are all cut at 301 cpms. What flex designation would you give my set if I have a 301 cpm 40" club all the way down to a 301 cpm 35.5" club? On the traditional scale(Kaufman's ) they would cover "L,", "A," "R" and "S."

What I need explained to me is why golfers play irons that are flexible in the long clubs, very stiff in the short clubs, and all have different Moment of Inertias, when I have one swing effort. "Tradition" does not cut it with me.

[Chieflongtee]

What I need explained to me is why golfers play irons that are flexible in the long clubs, very stiff in the short clubs, and all have different Moment of Inertias, when I have one swing effort. "Tradition" does not cut it with me.

No need to convince me. My irons all have the same butt frequency. Back to your point here is an analogy. A baseball power hitter hits the same bat over and over. However if he were to apply the '' standard technology'' he would end up with 13 different bats.

[BC MIST]

No need to convince me. My irons all have the same butt frequency. Back to your point here is an analogy. A baseball power hitter hits the same bat over and over. However if he were to apply the '' standard technology'' he would end up with 13 different bats.

Hmmm. If the power hitter tried to hit homerums each time he came to bat, then he would need only one bat as the effort would be the same each time. However, if he got a sign to bunt or single over the second baseman's head, would he call "Time Out," go to the Batboy and ask for one of his 12 other bats that had a softer flex, lower MOI and shorter length? I wonder what the swingweight of his homerun bat is?

BTW: In just measuring the frequency of a club at one length and then again at 1.5" shorter, in keeping with thotho's original idea, and then checking the designation on John's FA charts, this club would be an "S" at the longer length and move to an "X" at the shorter, confirming my original point above. This may not happen with all shafts, but it does happen. Again, this just shows that the flex designation concept is totally meaningless, UNLESS one is comparing the BUTT stiffness of, for example, an Aldila NV "R" to and Aldila NV "S", at the same length. In other words, one must compare apples to apples. Comparing the Aldila NV "R" to my Accuflex Evolution "S" does not necessarily mean that the NV is more flexible.

Of course, we now have launch monitors that will tell us EXACTLY what flex, loft, head, length, lie angle and vitamins we should have. We know that the machines NEVER lie, even though I can hit my 7* driver over an 100' tree, 175 yards out, while the software says that I should be playing an 11* head.