To use a Driver or not...

[Seaward]

I find the driver very inconsistant and have grown very close to my 3-wood (16 deg.), this is currently my "Driver". The distance from the club is awesome and very accurate.

now,

A typical driver is about 9.5 Deg. and a 3 Wood is about 16 deg. the distance between the two is maybe 50 yards or more? The 3-wood is much easier to hit than the Driver so I was wondering if anyone has used a 12 Deg club and how the distance was on that compared to the 16 deg. club and the Driver?


What is a good club that is "easier" to hit and is in the affordable range under $250 (new or used)

Currently my 3-wood is an Orlimar Trimetal Plus (older model).
Great club.

Anyways,
Thanks

[em69]

Can you get a 4 Wood Orlimar Tri-MEtal?

[Seaward]

I beleive they do make them but for Orlimar clubs they are hard to come by. The newer model has come out and so I found that many stores no longer carry the older models. I would be looking for used Orlimar Woods. Is there a comparable make to Orlimar out there or does every manufact. make their clubs that much different from one another?

[el tigre]

I have an Adams Tight Lies "Strong 3", which is a 13* fairway wood that is about 20-30 yards less than my 9.5 Integra driver. However, this is a shallow-faced club that is designed for hitting off the fairway or short rough - I find it difficult to hit off the tee even if I tee it up very low.

It sounds like what you are really looking for is a 2-wood, also known as a fairway driver. It is generally around 12 -13 degrees for men, and can be used off the tee or from a good lie in the fairway. An good explanation of fairway wood designations can be found at:

http://www.golfclubreview.com/wood_designations.htm

Check out the rest of the site for club reviews - I've found it very useful when shopping for new clubs.

[golfdoc]

16 degrees is a high loft for a three wood. They range from 14-16 degrees and your distance will vary slightly based on the loft. I currently use a Titleist driver and a Titleist 14.5 degree 3 wood. I had a new shaft put in but it is almost the same length as my driver. It gives me consistency and length.

I also have a Callaway 3+, which is a 12 degree. It is great off the fairway and not bad off the tee. The problem is, too many fairway woods are shallow faced and hard to hit off a tee.

[larry]

I use an Adam 3+ off the tee 75% of the time. I lose 10-20 yards but I also hit it in the fairway far more often than with my driver. I only tee the ball up if the ground on the tee box is bad. Just find it more acurate off the ground than a tee.

[GarthM]

Seaward:

As one who walked over 80 rounds last year without a driver (3 wood only) and had no trouble shooting in the low 80's (80-83) more than 20 times, stick with your 3-wood. 16 degrees should/can get you out there 225-250 yards depending on the ball/fairway/wind etc, so why sacrifice accuracy for an extra 15-20 yards distance?

BTW I did buy a Ping Bi-Matrix 10-degree driver this year, and when I hit it I love it. When I don't I hate it.....

I played a 2-day tournament at Meadows last week (South-East, West-East) and went 79-80 from the whites without the driver (carried it the whole way but did not hit it, birdied every par 5 on the first day BTW).

Food for thought.....

3-woods RULE!!!!

G.

[em69]

I agree...I never carry a driver and never will. I've tried all the top brands and nothing is as accurate as a 3 wood.

[NoBack]

I have been playing this game of ours for a long time now, over 25 years and I have only been using a driver for the last 2 1/2 seasons. I always hit my 3wood off the tee , and was very accurate and long enough at most courses in the city. Even "The Shtick" can agree with me there!!!

That was until I found a driver I could actually hit straight (or with a little fade). Thank God for the Callaway Warbird!!

[Seaward]

Im surprised at the number of people who stick with the 3 Wood over the driver. I thought I was one of the only ones out there.

3-woods are sweet.

Now the question is what 3-Wood do you use?

[NoBack]

Been using Ping Eye 2's (3 & 5 woods) since 92'. The "real wood kind" ....... but they are still as sweet as when I bought them. Have had them refinished a few times but love the feel and the look.

[JimmyW]

Jimmy's 2 cents here.

For the last little while I've been using nothing but my 5 wood to get around and, surprisingly, it's the most consistant and longest wood in my bag. Now I know my 5 will bring me to a relatively short but very repeatable 200+, but my 3 has anywhere from a slight 5 yd fade-to a 20 yd slice. And driver stays in the bag or garage

JW

[em69]

I play with Taylor Made 3 and 5 wood (Bubble Burner). When they eventually fall apart...it will be a very very sad day. I'll have to go look for new ones on the black market.

[Gofish2]

I see the logic behind leaving the driver at home but what about these 400cc(and up) monsters? Tried one at the Golf Show and it was a pleasure to hit on the indoor range. How about comments from someone who may have played one. Does the larger sweet spot make it more accurate than a normal size driver?

[nice_lag]

I have bought the 365cc Wilson Deep Red and found that it was very forgiving and it certainly helped my drives. It has a nice feel, certainly "corrects" toe and heel hits by 5-10 yards, for me anyway. It is not as long as they advertise IMHO. But knowing that I can hit decent drives has helped build my confidence and I've pounded one 330-340 today. Of course, no drivers will solve all your problems. Range time, lessons and play will ensure that you get better with your driver.

I'm the opposite of most people; I can't hit my fairway woods and you'll rarely see me pull one. I've used my 3-wood more often to "putt" from the fringe than on the tee box and the fairway combined this year. And don't worry about the practise. The 19th Tee and Kevin Haime have seen quite a bit of my money ... and I still can't hit the thing... But at least the driving practices paid off...

[clankoffdatee]

I disagree with almost all of you. The driver is part of the game. if you can't hit it fine...but don't pretend you're happy about it. Everybody digs the long ball and there is not one of you out there that wouldn't rather be hitting 9 iron into every par 4 instead of 6?5?Hitting the spoon is good management but nothing fels better than slamming the big stick right up the pipe!!!

I have experimented with drivers of every size,shape and configuration and would suggest consideration be given to correct shaft weight,firmness and kickpoint more than loft. The loft has more to do with the initial launch than the actual trajectory.too many are buying the hype and the example of their pga counterparts and purchasing the 7.5 or 9 degree loft driver.It is very difficult to hit this type of driver straight even 70% of the time for a good player. Those struggling with accuracy should seriously consider a 12 degree driver(trajectory allows for minimum sidespin therefore reducing the error margin and resulting in more accuracy) with a shorter shaft for control(43" or so). Tiger uses a 431/2 steel shaft driver. Most oversize and/or titanium face drivers require longer shafts(45") for stability not length. I strongly encourage players to talk with a qualified golfsmith. experimenting with different combinations will produce the result if your swing is solid. I carry driver (VFT_graffalloy shaft 44") 5 wood and 7wood.
My advice is to buy a good diver that fits your game and invest the balance of your money into lesson, a good putter,Dave Pelz's Putting Bible, lots of short game clinics and endless nites practicing your putting. Keep your driver at home when you come to the range!!!!

[Kilroy]

Originally posted by clankoffdatee
Those struggling with accuracy should seriously consider a 12 degree driver(trajectory allows for minimum sidespin therefore reducing the error margin and resulting in more accuracy) with a shorter shaft for control(43" or so).

Sounds like a "strong 3". I thought you were disagreeing?

[golfdoc]

Clank,

Let's be serious. A 12 degree loft isn't really a driver. If it is, then all these guys who carry a 14 or 15 degree 3 wood actually have drivers right?

You are correct that shaft stiffness, length etc make a difference. The swing is still the key. A shorter club, with more loft (3 wood) is easier for the average golfer to control.

I have a 44 inch Titleist driver and have a newly reshafted 43 1/2 inch Titleist 3 wood with 14 degree loft. My clubhead speed is almost the same with both. So if I got rid of my "driver" would my 3 wood become a driver?

And a lot of people are quite happy hitting a 3wood and not a driver. They are happy because they hit the fairway. They would be even happier if they beat there buddies. Happy golf is low score golf! If I played you, and beat you using my 3 wood off the tee and you used your driver, I would be happy.

[NoBack]

My opinion????

If one is happy hitting 3 wood and is in the fairway all the time........good for you! If you hit driver and hit the fairway a lot further than the 3 wood.....good for you!!

As they say ......... to each his own!!

Besides most courses around arent long enough to really make a difference. If we played mostly 450 yrd par fours, then I would beg to differ but a 3 wood 220 yrds off the tee is still close enough to be hitting mid to short irons to the greens.

Althooooooogh, hitting 9 irons and wedges to greens is still w a whole better. So I, for one will keep hitting my driver (btw....10 degree)..

[LobWedge]

Hey seaward;

I've got the club for you. Orlimar TriMetal 12+, True Temper EI70 graphite. email bbbbg2m@yahoo.ca

Let's talk

[el tigre]

One of the things I love about this game is that the same player can play the same hole in the same conditions all kinds of different ways - none of which are definitely right or wrong. This is where the player can get creative.

Yes, course management is an important part of the game - especially on par 5's. If a 250-yard drive is a minor miracle for you, then why use a driver off the tee on a par 5 when you can't get there in two - it's a high-risk, low-reward shot.

OTOH, I have 14 clubs in the bag - and every one has been a "hot" club at some time. You need to try them all 'cause you just never know. Tuesday I teed off with my 7-wood on almost every hole at The Meadows and scored my lowest round. Tried the driver twice and it stank. Sunday I played the same course under the same conditions, and my 7-wood was terrible. Played the driver on the back nine, and had the best drives of my life. Next week I'm sure nothing will work off the tee, but maybe my pitching wedge will be deadly.

Playing the same way with the same clubs is kinda boring, and you never seem to improve. I might start with a game plan, but if I find a "hot" club I just go with it every chance I get.

[golfdoc]

El Tigre,

Just goin' with it is the problem. You are hoping for a "hot" club every round. You never develop consistency and don't have a reliable club in the bag.

Learn how to hit your 3wood or 5 wood or umbrella off the tee with consistency. Playing a hot club might get a lower score now and then but that isn't consistency.

You only get around 14 yee shots, other than par 3's, per round. You can't afford to experiment with the first bunch just to find a "hot" club.

Playing with the same clubs is kinda boring to you, but I can guarantee that you improve that way.

[el tigre]

I couldn't disagree more.

My goal is to develop 14 reliable clubs in the bag, not one or two. That will only happen if I use them, both on the driving range and in the right situations on the golf course.

This is my third year playing, and I feel I have developed several "reliable" clubs. My 7-wood is one, but on Sunday it was uncharacteristically not working. Fortunately, I have other clubs that are just as reliable plus a few others that I can use with some confidence, because they have all worked for me at one time or another.

In the spring my 3-wood was working extremely well for me. I would use every chance I got, because it was my "hot" club. Now I'm not hitting it as well so I don't use it that often - but I don't cut it out altogether. When the situation demands a 3-wood then I pull out the 3-wood, and when I go to the range I practice with the 3-wood just as much (if not more) than my other clubs. I know it'll come back, and when it does it will be even better than before.

It amazes me to see someone on the first tee at Nation (a sharp dogleg at 150 yds) with a driver, 'cus they always have to tee off with a driver. But I'm equally amazed to see someone on the first tee at Champlain (a wide-open, 450 yd par 4) with a 5-iron, 'cus they have no confidence in their woods. You'll never be able to hit a club unless you use it from time to time.

[jeffc]

I think course management is the key. I play with a lot of people who just don't think on the course. They pull out driver way too much, especially on a short par 4 or long par 5 where 3 or 5 wood will suffice. They'd rather hit that one memorable 250 yd drive than hit the fairway consistently. Call it an ego thing.

The other thing I see is people hitting Driver then 3 Wood on a 550 yard hole. Hit a club that will put your ball in the fairway and then a 7 iron (or something similar) on your second shot, to about 100 yards and you'll be much better off most of the time.

I prefer to hit driver only if there is enough room on the fairway, regardless of the length of the hole. I'll give up 20 yards any day to be in the fairway. My 3 is pretty solid (with a slight fade) and my 5 wood I tend to hit straight to a slight draw. 5 iron is a good club for me on holes such as Emerald 1 and Stonebridge 4 East.

I've never been a good long iron hitter but can consistently hit fairway woods off the deck or tee. Use what works for you and most of all use your brain on the course.

[golfdoc]

I definitely agree that course management is a key. Playing within your limits is another key. I see so many golfers who could eliminate nearly ten strokes per round simply by playing smarter.

El Tigre, I agree that being able to hit all 14 clubs is important but the course is not the place to try something and hope it is "hot" that day. Practice on the range until you are consistent with a certain club.

There are certain holes where you need a "sure" club, something that will definitely hit the fairway. If you are hoping, you are already in trouble.

If you have several reliable clubs, use those on the course if you want to score well. The course is not the place to practice or work on yuor swing.

[el tigre]

JeffC, I couldn't agree more. Proper course management is the key to playing smart golf. With few exceptions, there really is no need to play driver on short par 4's or par 5's. I also tee off with a 5 iron on Emerald Links 1 - that's just playing smart.

A real "course management" question might be how you play Emerald Links 3 & 4, the two tight dogleg par 4's where you need 200 yards to get to the corner and see the green. Some people think "course management" means playing ultra-conservative golf. They concede par before even taking a stroke by teeing off on these holes with a 7 iron, and call this "good course management". I think good course management means picking your spots, and I tee off with whatever fairway wood I think will get me to the corner that day.

Golfdoc, we agree more than you think but you seem to have misunderstood some of my earlier comments. I don't "experiment" on the golf course or work on my swing there - I do that at the range. I don't just "hope" a club is hot - the clubs I hit well are the ones I was hitting well at the range, on the course last week, etc. They are my reliable clubs. But over time, things can change. You buy new clubs, you take lessons, you play more and you find that you can hit certain clubs better than before and others not as well. But unless you use a club at some point, in some situation that would seem to call for it - then you will never learn to use it.

[clankoffdatee]

I still believe that in order to be a solid player with a strong game you must proficient with all your clubs when they are called upon. The combination of what you carry is a personal preference and therein lies the beauty of it.They are your tools. I still contend that hitting something other than a driver when required is avoiding the problem. If you never hit it you'll never learn to hit it. I would agree that the course is not the place to learn to hit it.
I understand if you make the concious decision on the course not to hit a driver when it the percentages allow it in order to avoid a bad score and maintain your sanity. Those who are trying to bomb a driver or even a 3 wood on 3 at emerald rarely can and will never improve with that approach. You will not see a scratch player do that. In order to score better consistently you gotta play all the clubs and all the shots.I'm sure you low handicappers out there will attest to that.
If course management and/or club confidence are the solution then we should all play with a 7 iron,wedge and a putter and we could all theoretically shoot par.Three solid 150 yd irons, a 3/4 wedge and a 10 footer for par. That may be exagerrating the point but the driver has it's place as does the 3 wood strong or otherwise. There is nothing wrong with using something other than a driver if you are not comfortable and it impedes your fun factor but I don't believe that anyone out there does so because they like to.

[jeffc]

El Tigre, here's my strategy on these holes:

3rd hole....

I usually hit 3 or 5 wood depending on the tees and wind. I just try to put it in play and tend to aim up the left side of the fairway (to avoid the water). That usually leaves a short iron to the green. Note a 3 wood can run through the fairway here so be careful.

4th hole

I almost always hit driver as this hole sets up nicely for me (slight fade). I start it out up the left side and let it turn into the middle of the fairway. That usually leaves me with 7 or 8 iron into the green. This hole seems to set-up well for me but if it was reversed, I'd almost certainly hit 3 wood.

Note, the front nine on Emerald I hit drivers only on #2 and #4 (and sometines #7). The rest are 3 woods, 5 woods or irons.

[el tigre]

Jeffc, that's exactly how I play them as well - sometimes I'll use a 3-wood on #4 instead of driver. I never use my most "reliable" club - the 7-wood - because it would never get me to the corner on these holes. Hitting a 7-wood and then a pitching wedge twice to get to the green in three is not my idea of good course management, even if I am in the middle of the fairway on all three shots.

[rancherJ]

golfdoc,dan re: 12 degree not really a driver. Kevin Haime in June Flagstick mag recommends 10-12 degree driver for most golfers pg. 52