Re-Grooving Irons??

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03-16-2004 06:59 PM
smark_ca

Re-Grooving Irons??

I recently had a set of blades passed on to me. I have hit them at the range and just love the feel of them. The only problem is that the grooves are worn down. Is it possible to re-groove the blades and what are the rules in regards to re-grooving (ie..depth, width)
Thanks...
03-16-2004 09:08 PM
Chieflongtee

smark_ca . :noddin Please read this thread and read the post from Longstick. You'll have the answer you're looking for.
http://www.freegolfinfo.com/forums/tm.asp?m=699578
03-22-2004 09:15 AM
Marmotte

This is the text from the Longstick post...
"If you have a Dremel tool, the small, granular (and very fragile) cutting disks are just the right width to comply with USGA groove width dimensions. Just let the disk ride along the existing grooves and deepen slightly. (I forget what the depth limitations are, but I assume they are in The Rules of Golf.)

Here's a clip from a Dave Tutelman Shoptalk post on December 05, 2003 describing how he widened some narrow grooves:

"The maximum groove width allowed by the rules is .035".
The wedge as shipped had a groove width about .015" -- way smaller than allowed. So I wanted to widen them.

I have a Dremel tool. The abrasive metal-cutting disks for this gadget are .027" thick. So I ran the tool along the grooves. Clamped the head with the face up and accessible. I freehanded it; the original grooves provided a good guide for the blade. I cut until the disk settled down to the bottom of the groove.

This gave me a U-groove .030" wide, just about right.

Hope this is clear.
DaveT"
03-22-2004 03:09 PM
LobWedge

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3295

This is the text from the Longstick post...
"If you have a Dremel tool, the small, granular (and very fragile) cutting disks are just the right width to comply with USGA groove width dimensions. Just let the disk ride along the existing grooves and deepen slightly. (I forget what the depth limitations are, but I assume they are in The Rules of Golf.)

Here's a clip from a Dave Tutelman Shoptalk post on December 05, 2003 describing how he widened some narrow grooves:

"The maximum groove width allowed by the rules is .035".
The wedge as shipped had a groove width about .015" -- way smaller than allowed. So I wanted to widen them.

I have a Dremel tool. The abrasive metal-cutting disks for this gadget are .027" thick. So I ran the tool along the grooves. Clamped the head with the face up and accessible. I freehanded it; the original grooves provided a good guide for the blade. I cut until the disk settled down to the bottom of the groove.

This gave me a U-groove .030" wide, just about right.

Hope this is clear.
DaveT"

The major drawback to this method that you need to consider is that by using any kind of grinding or scoring tool, you are also cutting through the chrome and exposing the steel underneath. The exposed metal will rust over time and most likely cause the remaining chrome to peel, and then it just gets ugly.

The best, and only option IMHO, is to send the heads away to have them re-grooved and re-chromed. It can be a fairly pricey endeavor, but if you really like the feel of the clubs and the're a set that you will likely stick with, it can be a wise investment that will greatly increase the lifespan of your irons.
06-01-2004 08:44 AM
dbleber

Anyone try this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3295

This is the text from the Longstick post...
"If you have a Dremel tool, the small, granular (and very fragile) cutting disks are just the right width to comply with USGA groove width dimensions. Just let the disk ride along the existing grooves and deepen slightly. (I forget what the depth limitations are, but I assume they are in The Rules of Golf.)

Here's a clip from a Dave Tutelman Shoptalk post on December 05, 2003 describing how he widened some narrow grooves:

"The maximum groove width allowed by the rules is .035".
The wedge as shipped had a groove width about .015" -- way smaller than allowed. So I wanted to widen them.

I have a Dremel tool. The abrasive metal-cutting disks for this gadget are .027" thick. So I ran the tool along the grooves. Clamped the head with the face up and accessible. I freehanded it; the original grooves provided a good guide for the blade. I cut until the disk settled down to the bottom of the groove.

This gave me a U-groove .030" wide, just about right.

Hope this is clear.
DaveT"

dbleber:
Has anyone tried this method yet? I have a set of Titleist Triple Grind Sole wedges that because of the soft steel and the amount they have been played some of the grooves are worn and in some spots dented. This sounds easy enough as long as you don't go crazy withthe Dremel. Let me know if anyone has done this yet.
Thanks
Denny
06-01-2004 08:24 PM
RoyalQ

Quote:

Originally Posted by smark_ca

I recently had a set of blades passed on to me. I have hit them at the range and just love the feel of them. The only problem is that the grooves are worn down. Is it possible to re-groove the blades and what are the rules in regards to re-grooving (ie..depth, width)
Thanks...

I suggest you listen to what Lobwedge says. If they are blades you got for cheap and just want to experiment, go ahead with the Dremel, but beware, it can/will get ugly.
Last spring I bought a beautiful set of Wilson FG-17s that were regrooved AND rechromed at the Iron Factory. Really nice shiny sticks, but I had to add 8 grams weight plugs to get the swingweight up. Iron Factory now offers a process that will restore original weight. Good luck with those thin soles!
http://www.theironfactory.com/index.html