Driver lost it's pop!!??

Hey guys, I have been hitting a TM R580 not even "xd"... Thing has to be 7 or 8 years old now.. Basically nearing the end of last season I felt the ball was not "popping" off the clubface as well anymore.. I play 40-50 rounds a year plus lots of practice with the same driver.. Has anyone heard of a driver losing it's pop? I have heard about placing a bank card on the face and if it isnt convex anymore it is an issue.. The face of mine seems literally flat..??? I am just so comfy with this club.. Please let me know what you think guys.. Cheers

Happens all the time. Usually if you look very carefully you can find a hairline crack somewhere. Not sure about the credit card thing, but it does sound to me like it's done.

The Saint has a very nice 510 TP for sale on the forum if you want a replacement,for 75.00.Cant beat that.

Let me know if you're looking for another driver I may have 3 to choose from.

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Originally Posted by abre0005

Hey guys, I have been hitting a TM R580 not even "xd"... Thing has to be 7 or 8 years old now.. Basically nearing the end of last season I felt the ball was not "popping" off the clubface as well anymore.. I play 40-50 rounds a year plus lots of practice with the same driver.. Has anyone heard of a driver losing it's pop? I have heard about placing a bank card on the face and if it isnt convex anymore it is an issue.. The face of mine seems literally flat..??? I am just so comfy with this club.. Please let me know what you think guys.. Cheers

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Uh oh Steph, no more magic in the wand? :-)

Metal fatigue is a common thing with drivers over time, especially with lots of use. Unless you're a guy like Noback who can't dent a pop can. :laughing:

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Originally Posted by LobWedge

Uh oh Steph, no more magic in the wand? :-)

Metal fatigue is a common thing with drivers over time, especially with lots of use. Unless you're a guy like Noback who can't dent a pop can. :laughing:

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Ohhh!! That was Vicious!!!!




..........................I LOVE IT!!! :thumbsup :thumbsup :P :lmfao

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Originally Posted by Hacker

Ohhh!! That was Vicious!!!!




..........................I LOVE IT!!! :thumbsup :thumbsup :P :lmfao

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hee hee

Steve knows where that's coming from. He's taken his fair share of our money over the years, and the trash talking is always taken as well as it's given. If someone on tour hasn't somehow insulted your game (or lack thereof) before the end of your round, there's something wrong. Makes for great bull sessions after the rounds for sure. :-)

I've got an old avatar around here somewhere that I should reserect to prove the point that we don't take ourselves too seriously. But that's for a different thread...:shhh:

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the trash talking is always taken as well as it's given

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Yep. He giveth and he taketh. :lmfao

That era of TM product used a poorer quality of metal and as a result the face loses the ability to compress the ball. Think of this like a wedge; once the grooves are gone that wedge is next to useless, same theory aplies to all of the TM 300 series and 500 series woods (not sure about irons/wedges). But once they loose their distance you better start shopping for a new stick.

Geez, imagine if Steph used a driver with good metal? He'd be the Canadian long drive champ!

Well, thanks for all the advice guys. I found a good deal in the forums on a
TM R5 Dual TP which actually matches my current 3 wood... It's in mint shape, so I'm hoping to get that little extra pop off the face I've been missing for a while.. Now I'm curious about this cheap metal series of TM products. Anyone know if that includes the R5 series? I will probably change my driver every 2-3 years anyway now that I know... Thx

The cheap metal comment is completely wrong.

A driver will only lose distance if the head is somehow damaged. This can either be a crack or bend.

Unless you hit thousands of balls or have a swing speed that is upwards of 120MPH then you are unlikely to wear out a driver under normal conditions. Of course, all drivers have an inherent failure rate associated with them.

My advice is buy the club you like and only change it if you notice a sudden change in distance.

"The cheap metal comment is completely wrong"

In response;

I used to work for a local golfcourse, and had come accross this issue many times with our members. I spoke frequently with our TM representative and discussed it with product managers at TM and all of them gave me the same response stating that the metal in the R5 series had an issue with the grain causing it to weaken at a much faster rate than expected. Thus causing the faces to cave inwards and break more frequently at the weld lines.

However, you may choose to believe jvincent or myself, but time will eventually tell now won't it.

Perhaps I should have been more clear in my comment. Whether a metal is cheap or not has nothing to do with the ability to compress a ball.

If the face is structurally sound, i.e. no cracks, then the ball will compress based on the COR of the face and the speed of the clubhead. The quality of the metal has no bearing in the amount of compression.

If the metal used is lower grade, or the welds are poor, or the face is too thin for the clubhead speed of the user then you will get early failures for sure.