44" driver or shorter...????

A month ago I played in Florida with an old set of my clubs, including a Mizuno MX500 driver. The shaft in it was actually just shy off 44" and I can't remember feeling that "in control" of my driver.
Although I was a bit short of my usual yardage, I was thrilled with the accuracy.
It's too bad I can't buy a driver of the shelf with a shorter shaft. Everything is almost 46" or longer! Nobody can really control this can they?

I am looking for a new driver and will have to buy a club off the rack, then buy a shaft, which is a waste of money! Very frustrating!!!

Here is a great read...

http://www.rotaryswing.com/golf-inst...ch-monitor.php

Current driver is 44 and I still choke down a bit on it. Instead of buying one off the rack, go get fitted and let the club maker put the right length shaft in it for you, worth the money for sure.

I am not looking to spend a bunch of money and always buy clubs that are "last years model" because they are much better value...
Can anybody suggest a good $50-$60 shaft? Mid launch with torque around 3.5

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Originally Posted by golfisforfun

I am not looking to spend a bunch of money and always buy clubs that are "last years model" because they are much better value...
Can anybody suggest a good $50-$60 shaft? Mid launch with torque around 3.5

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You can just get your driver butt trimmed.

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Originally Posted by DenisO

Current driver is 44 and I still choke down a bit on it. Instead of buying one off the rack, go get fitted and let the club maker put the right length shaft in it for you, worth the money for sure.

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This guy knows what he's talking about ! :thumbsup

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Originally Posted by bNeill

You can just get your driver butt trimmed.

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Not a good idea if trimming an 1'' (6 s.w pts. ) that's a lot! Better off starting from scratch with a raw shaft and a frequency anylizer to do it it up right. It will cost some $$$ but if you want to play, you gotta pay.

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Originally Posted by golfisforfun

I am not looking to spend a bunch of money and always buy clubs that are "last years model" because they are much better value...
Can anybody suggest a good $50-$60 shaft? Mid launch with torque around 3.5

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Cutting an inch of your current driver is a good way to start. The S/W might be off, but it might not matter to you.

As far as shaft recommendations go, it's really a personal thing, but I quite like the AXE shafts that are available at Golfworks. Several models/weights to choose from and all in your price range.

+1 for the AXE shafts, I have one in my Wishon driver and they are amazing.
http://www.golfworks.ca/category.asp...035_A_c2c_E_ln

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Originally Posted by jvincent

Cutting an inch of your current driver is a good way to start. The S/W might be off, but it might not matter to you.

As far as shaft recommendations go, it's really a personal thing, but I quite like the AXE shafts that are available at Golfworks. Several models/weights to choose from and all in your price range.

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Might be off !!! Tell me your kidding. Would you play a driver that is 6 pts. lighter combined with the 1'' shorter lenght ? There is probably 0.00011 % of all golfers who would be fitted for such a combination.

Think also of what you have done to the intended profile of the shaft.

By hacking off a full 1" from the butt, you are increasing the tip stiffness substancially and decreasing the butt stiffness. Even if you replace the 12 gr. in the head, the club will play totally different.

For someone looking for control by using a shorter driver, this is so, not the way to do it.

You are assuming the original configuration was even remotely close to correct for him.

If you were starting with an OEM shaft and a head, you would trim it from the butt for length, wouldn't you? How is this any different?

Taking an inch off the butt of the shaft doesn't change the stiffness of the tip. It changes the frequency of the club as measured from the butt, but the stiffness profile as measured from the tip toward the butt has not changed.

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Originally Posted by downhillslider

Think also of what you have done to the intended profile of the shaft.

By hacking off a full 1" from the butt, you are increasing the tip stiffness substancially and decreasing the butt stiffness. Even if you replace the 12 gr. in the head, the club will play totally different.

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But... every shaft trimming chart I've ever seen says to butt trim to length. :confused

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Originally Posted by downhillslider

For someone looking for control by using a shorter driver, this is so, not the way to do it.

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I've gotta ask then: What is the way to do it?

I always shave 3/4 -1 inch on any stock driver I get. I like the length around 44.5 inches. Swing weight be damned.

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Originally Posted by nokids

I always shave 3/4 -1 inch on any stock driver I get. I like the length around 44.5 inches. Swing weight be damned.

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What he said! :thumbsup

Ok, so the Superfast 2.0 plays close to 46.5" and I want 44" shaft... So clearly chopping more than 2 inches off the butt end is not going to work...
Guess I will have to find a .350 shaft to fit the head...

Why do you think cutting 2.5" isn't going to "work"? Whatever shaft you put in it will be the SAME length as the original shaft you cut.

If you are worried about total weight, or swingweight, or butt CPM, there are ways to address that with the current shaft. Or since you are not going to be using the current shaft for anything else (assumption on my part) just cut it, see if you like the way it plays at 44", and if you don't then you can look for a different shaft.

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Originally Posted by jvincent

You are assuming the original configuration was even remotely close to correct for him.

If you were starting with an OEM shaft and a head, you would trim it from the butt for length, wouldn't you? How is this any different?

Taking an inch off the butt of the shaft doesn't change the stiffness of the tip. It changes the frequency of the club as measured from the butt, but the stiffness profile as measured from the tip toward the butt has not changed.

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1-Yes, my quote was based on that assumption.

2-An OEM set up is designed to play a certain lenght because the company want's a certain feel to be associated with the club. Any extra butt trimming will change that intended feel. If you take a full 1'' or more off the butt, the change in feel in magnified to the point where you have altered the intended playability of that shaft.

3-If I place the tip end of a, let's say a raw 46'' shaft in my frequency anylizer and take a reading,and then cut an 1'' from the butt and take another reading are you telling me that the readings will be identical? Take the raw shaft and do readings every 5'' then cut the 1'' off and do it again. Now your 5'' marks have each moved 1'' towards the tip.

4- My bad, I will give you the one about the tip stiffness not changing. What I should have said was it will feel stiffer because of the change in profile of the original shaft.

This discussion is not even relevant if we are dealing with a "butt trim only" shaft, or would it :eek:

Cheers

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3-If I place the tip end of a, let's say a raw 46'' shaft in my frequency anylizer and take a reading,and then cut an 1'' from the butt and take another reading are you telling me that the readings will be identical? Take the raw shaft and do readings every 5'' then cut the 1'' off and do it again. Now your 5'' marks have each moved 1'' towards the tip.

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CPM readings are a proxy for the actual rigidity of the staff.

The oscillation frequency is a function of the beam length, the weight used for the measurement, and the actual rigidity of the shaft. So yes, the CPM will change when I cut the shaft, but the absolute stiffness of the shaft, measured starting from the tip, will not change.

Will taking an inch or two off the butt change the feel of the club? Absolutely. But that may in fact be what the OP needs. Of course the club may simply be too light for him at any length given the headweight. Taylormade is notorious for this IMHO.

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Originally Posted by mjf

But... every shaft trimming chart I've ever seen says to butt trim to length. :confused

Shaft manufacturers design the product to perform a certain way based on industry/current lenghts and clubhead weights.



I've gotta ask then: What is the way to do it?

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You need determine your swing profile and establish a butt frequency that you like. The butt end if the club is where the most feedback comes form because it is in your hands. From there, you need to find a shaft with a modest tip section lenght that reasonably fits your swing profile in order to get the club at the desired lenght and frequency. This requires a lot of work with the frequency anylizer.

OK, so I have a R flex stock shaft in the Superfast. I have always played Stiff NV shafts in my drivers. What will be the result of me chopping 2 inches of the butt end of the R flex shaft?

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Originally Posted by jvincent

CPM readings are a proxy for the actual rigidity of the staff.

The oscillation frequency is a function of the beam length, the weight used for the measurement, and the actual rigidity of the shaft. So yes, the CPM will change when I cut the shaft, but the absolute stiffness of the shaft, measured starting from the tip, will not change.

Will taking an inch or two off the butt change the feel of the club? Absolutely. But that may in fact be what the OP needs. Of course the club may simply be too light for him at any length given the headweight. Taylormade is notorious for this IMHO.

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I agree.

Do we agree with the change in profile that occurs ?

how's the Marshes looking from your view ??

No disagreement that the flex profile will change.

The Marshes looks quite good right now.

Somebody lost a club that has been sitting in the middle of the 10th fairway for the last 3 days at least. It's directly across from my office. It's finally ****** me off enough that I might walk out and pick it up so that I can turn it into the clubhouse.

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Originally Posted by jvincent

No disagreement that the flex profile will change.

The Marshes looks quite good right now.

Somebody lost a club that has been sitting in the middle of the 10th fairway for the last 3 days at least. It's directly across from my office. It's finally ****** me off enough that I might walk out and pick it up so that I can turn it into the clubhouse.

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I wonder if it's my PING M Series 60* that misteriously was not turned in to the pro shop after I discovered it missing from my bag late in a round last year.

It was a well worn Ping K15 three wood. My golf karma for the year is good.